Tales of the Cocktail 2008
the gumbo pages

looka, <lʊ´-kə> dialect, v.
1. The imperative form of the verb "to look"; in the spoken vernacular of New Orleans, it is usually employed when the speaker wishes to call one's attention to something.  

2. --n. Chuck Taggart's weblog, hand-made and updated (almost) daily, focusing on food and drink, cocktails as cuisine, music (especially of the roots variety), New Orleans and Louisiana culture, news of the reality-based community ... and occasionally movies, books, sf, public radio, media and culture, travel, Macs, liberal and progressive politics, humor and amusements, reviews, complaints, the author's life and opinions, witty and/or smart-arsed comments and whatever else tickles the author's fancy.

Please feel free to contribute a link if you think I'll find it interesting.   If you don't want to read my opinions, feel free to go elsewhere.

Page last tweaked @ 4:26pm PDT, 6/30/2008

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Buy my New Orleans music box set!

Doctors, Professors, Kings and Queens

"Doctors, Professors, Kings and Queens: The Big Ol' Box of New Orleans" is a 4-CD box set celebrating the joy and diversity of the New Orleans music scene, from R&B to jazz to funk to Latin to blues to zydeco to klezmer (!) and more, including a full-size, 80-page book.

Produced, compiled and annotated by Chuck Taggart (hey, that's me!), liner notes by Mary Herczog (author of Frommer's New Orleans) and myself. Now for sale at your favorite independent record stores (such as the Louisiana Music Factory, because you should be supporting local New Orleans retailers) or via Amazon if you insist.

The box set was the subject of a 15-minute profile on National Public Radio's "Weekend Edition" on Feb. 6, 2005, and a segment on Wisconsin Public Radio's "To The Best of Our Knowledge" on Apr. 3, 2005. Here are some nice blurbs from the reviews (a tad immodest, I know; I'm not generally one to toot my own horn, but let's face it, I wanna sell some records here.)

*      *      *

"More successfully than any previous compilation, Doctors... captures the sprawling eclecticism, freewheeling fun and constant interplay of tradition and innovation that is at the heart of Crescent City music." -- Keith Spera, New Orleans Times-Picayune.

"... if you DO know someone who's unfortunate enough to have never heard these cuts, press this monumentally adventurous box and its attendant booklet upon them. It's never too late to learn" -- Robert Fontenot, OffBeat magazine, New Orleans

"... the best collection yet of Louisiana music." -- Scott Jordan, The Independent, Lafayette, Louisiana.

"[T]he year's single most awesome package" -- Buddy Blue, San Diego Union-Tribune

"This four-CD box set doesn't miss a Crescent City beat ... For anyone who has enjoyed the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, this is Jazz Fest in a box. ***1/2" -- Dave Hoekstra, Chicago Sun-Times

"... excellently compiled, wonderfully annotated ... New Orleans fans will know much of this by heart, though they may not remember it sounding so good; those who don't know what it's like to miss New Orleans will quickly understand." -- Terry Lawson, Detroit Free Press.

"... a perfect storm when it comes to reissues. This box set is musically exciting, a complete representation of its subject matter, and just plain fun to listen." -- Charlie B. Dahan, AllAboutJazz.com

"... one of the best impressions of a city's musical blueprint that you're likely to ever find." -- Zeth Lundy, PopMatters.com

"... an unacademic, uncategorized album that suits the city's time-warped party spirit." -- Jon Pareles, The New York Times

How to donate to this site:

Your donations help keep this site going. PayPal's the best way -- just click the button below, and thanks!

You can also donate via the Amazon.com Honor System, if you wish (but they deduct a larger fee from your donation and I keep less).

(Also, here's a shameless link to my Amazon Wish List.)

Buy stuff!

You can get Gumbo Pages designs on T-shirts, mugs and mousepads at The Gumbo Pages Swag Shop!

Looka! Archive
(99 and 44/100% link rot)

June 2008
May 2008
April 2008
March 2008
February 2008
January 2008

2007:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2006:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2005:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2004:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2003:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2002:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2001:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

2000:   Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

1999:   Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
 

My Photos on Flickr

www.flickr.com
My Darlin' New Orleans...

The Flag of The City of New Orleans

Shop New Orleans! Visit the stores linked here to do your virtual online shopping in New Orleans. The city needs your money!

Greater N.O. Community Data Center
New Orleans Wiki

Media:
Gambit Weekly
NOLA.com & The Times-Picayune
OffBeat
Scat Magazine
WDSU-TV (Channel 6, NBC)
WGNO-TV (Channel 26, ABC)
WNOL-TV (Channel 38, WB)
WTUL-FM (91.5, Progressive radio)
WVUE-TV (Channel 8, FOX)
WWL-TV (Channel 4, CBS)
WWNO-FM (89.9, classical, jazz, NPR)
WWOZ-FM (90.7, Best Radio Station in the Universe)
WYES-TV (Channel 12, PBS)


NOLAblogs

New Orleans ...
proud to blog it home.

2 Millionth Weblog
A Frolic of My Own
Ashley Morris (in memoriam)
Blogging New Orleans
Dispatches from Tanganyika
Home of the Groove
Humid City
Library Chronicles
Mellytawn Dreams
Metroblogging N.O.
People Get Ready
Da Po'Blog
Suspect Device Blog
The Third Battle of New Orleans
World Class New Orleans
The Yat Pundit
Your Right Hand Thief
Cocktail hour.

"We are still heartily of the opinion that decent libation supports as many million lives as it threatens; donates pleasure and sparkle to more lives than it shadows; inspires more brilliance in the world of art, music, letters, and common ordinary intelligent conversation, than it dims." -- Charles H. Baker, Jr.

CocktailDB
   The Internet's most comprehensive
   and indispensible database of
   authenticated cocktail recipes,
   ingredients, reseearch and more.
   By Martin Doudoroff & Ted Haigh)


Museum of the American Cocktail
   Founded by Dale DeGroff and many
   other passionate spirits in Jan. 2005.
   Celebrating a true American cultural
   icon: the American Cocktail.
   (Their weblog.)

Blogging Tales of the Cocktail

*     *     *

The Sazerac Cocktail
   (The sine qua non of cocktails,
   and the quintessential New Orleans
   cocktail. Learn to make it.)

The Footloose Cocktail
   (An original by Wes;
   "Wonderful!" - Gary Regan.
   "Very elegant, supremely
   sophisticated" - Daniel Reichert.)


The Hoskins Cocktail
   (An original by Chuck;
   "It's nothing short of a
   masterpiece." - Gary Regan)


*     *     *

Chuck & Wes' Liquor Cabinet
   (Frighteningly large, and would
   never fit in a cabinet)


Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Book Collection
   (Constantly growing)

Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Menu
   (A few things we like to
   drink at home, plus a couple
   we don't, just for fun.)


*     *     *

Peychaud's Bitters
   (Indispensible for Sazeracs
   and many other cocktails.
   Order them here.)


Angostura Bitters
   (The gold standard of bitters,
   fortunately available everywhere
   worldwide. Insist on it.)


Regans' Orange Bitters No. 6
   (Complex and spicy orange
   bitters for your Martinis,
   Old Fashioneds and many more.
   Order them here.)


Fee Brothers' Bitters
   (Classic orange bitters,
   peach bitters and a cinnamony
   "Old Fashion" aromatic bitters,
   plus new lemon & grapefruit bitters!)


The Bitter Truth
   (A new brand of bitters
   from Germany: orange, lemon,
   aromatic bitters and more!)


Bittermens Bitters
   (Fantastic new small-batch
   bitters company with forth-
   coming products including
   Xocolatl Mole Bitters,
   grapefruit, "tiki" spice,
   and sweet chocolate bitters, wow!)


*     *     *

Alcademics
   (The study of booze with Camper English)

Ardent Spirits
   (Gary & Mardee Regan)

The Art of Drink:
   An exploration of Spirits & Mixology.
   (Darcy O'Neil)

Bar Mix Master
   (Brad Ellis, New Orleans)

Beachbum Berry:
   (Jeff Berry, world-class expert
   on tropical drinks)

The Cocktail Chronicles
   (Paul Clarke's weblog)

Cocktailians.com
   (Group drinks blog by Vidiot,
   Mr. Bali Hai, Kosmonaut,
   Chico and me).

Cocktail Nerd
   (Gabriel Szaszko)

A Dash of Bitters
   (Michael Dietsch)

DrinkBoston.com
   (Lauren Clark)

DrinkBoy and the
   Community for the
   Cultured Cocktail
   (Robert Hess, et al.)

DrinkBoy's Cocktail Weblog

Drink Trader
   (Online magazine for the
   drink trade)

Esquire's Drinks Database
   (Dave Wondrich and
   his forbears)

Happy Hours
   (Beverage industry
   news & insider info)

Imbibe Magazine
   (Celebrating the world in a glass)

Jeff Morgenthaler
   (Bartender/mixologist, Eugene OR)

Jimmy's Cocktail Hour
   (Jimmy Patrick)

Kaiser Penguin
    (Rick Stutz, bringing us cocktails
    and great photographs)

King Cocktail
   (Dale DeGroff)

La Fée Verte
   (All about absinthe
   from Kallisti et al.)

LUPEC.org
   (Ladies United for the
   Preservation of
   Endangered Cocktails)

Fine Spirits & Cocktails
   (eGullet's forum)

The Ministry of Rum
   (Everything you always wanted to know)

The Modern Mixologist
   (Tony Abou-Ganim)

Mr. Lucky's Cocktails
   (Sando, LaDove,
   Swanky et al.)

Mr. Mixer
   (Hundreds of cocktail recipes ...
   in Hungarian. Well, why not?
   Sajnos, nem beszélek magyarul.)

Nat Decants
   (Natalie MacLean)

Off the Presses
   (Robert Simonson)

Oh, Gosh!
   (Jay Hepburn)

Rowley's Whiskey Forge
   (Matt Rowley)

Sloshed!
   (Marleigh)

Spirit Journal
   (F. Paul Pacult)

Spirits and Cocktails
   (Jamie Boudreau)

Spirits Review
   (Chris Carlsson)

Tastings.com
   (Beverage Tasting
   Institute journal)

The Thirstin' Howl
   (John Myers)

Trader Tiki's Booze Blog
   (Blair Reynolds)

Vintage Cocktails
   (Daniel Reichert)

The Wormwood Society
   (Dedicated to promoting accurate,
   current information about absinthe)

Let's eat!

New Orleans:
Appetites
Culinary Concierge (N.O. food & wine magazine)
Mr. Lake's Non-Pompous New Orleans Food Forum
The New Orleans Menu
Notes from a New Orleans Foodie

Food-related weblogs:
Bacontarian
Chocolate and Zucchini
Honest Cuisine
Il Forno
KIPlog's FOODblog
MeatHenge
Mise en Place
Sauté Wednesday
Simmer Stock
Tastespotting
Tasting Menu
Waiter Rant

More food!
à la carte
Chef Talk Café
Chowhound (L.A.)
eGullet
Epicurious
Food Network
The Global Gourmet
The Hungry Passport site and weblog)
A Muse for Cooks
The Online Chef
Practically Edible
Pasta, Risotto & You
Slow Food Int'l. Movement
Southern Food & Beverages Museum
Southern Foodways Alliance
So. Calif. Farmer's Markets
Zagat Guide
&c.

In vino veritas.

The Oxford Companion to Wine
Wine Enthsiast
The Wine Spectator
Wine Today
Wines.com
Zinfandel Advocates & Producers

Wine/spirits shops in our 'hood:
Colorado Wine Co., Eagle Rock
Mission Liquors, Pasadena
Silverlake Wine, Silverlake
Chronicle Wine Cellar, Pasadena

Other wine/spirits shops we visit:
Beverage Warehouse, Mar Vista
Wally's Wine & Spirits, Westwood
The Wine House, West L.A.



Reading this month:

Lisey's Story, by Stephen King.

The Ghost Brigades, by John Scalzi.

In Defense of Food, by Michael Pollan.

Listen to music!

Chuck's current album recommendations

Altan
BeauSoleil
Beck
Luka Bloom
La Bottine Souriante
Billy Bragg
Cordelia's Dad
Jay Farrar
The Frames
Kíla
Sonny Landreth
Los Lobos
Christy Moore
Nickel Creek
OK Go
The Old 97s
Anders Osborne
Planxty
The Proclaimers
Professor Longhair
Red Meat
The Red Stick Ramblers
The Reivers
Zachary Richard
Paul Sanchez
Marc Savoy
Son Volt
Richard Thompson
Toasted Heretic
Uncle Tupelo
Wilco

Tom Morgan's Jazz Roots

Miles of Music

New Orleans Bands.net

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival

No Depression

RootsWorld

Appalachian String Band Music Festival - Clifftop, WV

Long Beach Bayou Festival

Strawberry Music Festival - Yosemite, CA

Talking furniture:

WWOZ (New Orleans)
   Broadcast schedule
   Live audio stream

KCSN (Los Angeles)
   Broadcast schedule
   Stream the last "Down Home"
   for 1 week after broadcastk

   Live MP3 audio stream

Bob Walker's New Orleans Radio Shrine
   (A rich history of N.O. radio)

PublicRadioFan.com
   (Comprehensive listings)

Air America Radio
   (Talk radio for the
   rest of us)
Folkscene
Joe Frank
Grateful Dead Radio
   (Streaming complete
   shows!)
KPIG, 107 Oink 5
   (Freedom, CA)
KRVS Radio Acadie
   (Lafayette, LA)
LouisianaRadio.com
Mike Hodel's "Hour 25"
   (Science fiction radio)
Raidió Idirlíon
   (Irish language & music)
Raidió na Gaeltachta
   (Irish language)
RootsWorld's Rootsradio
RTÉ Radio Ceolnet
   (Irish trad. music)
WXDU (Durham, NC)

Films seen this year:
(with ratings):

In the cinema:
Sweeney Todd, The Demon Barber of Fleet Street (****-1/2)
Atonement (****)
No Country for Old Men (****)
Juno (***-1/2)

On DVD:
Dominion: Prequel to The Exorcist (***)
Eastern Promises (***-1/2)
Omagh (***-1/2)
Transformers (**-1/2)
Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End (**-1/2)
Across the Universe (***-1/2)
Sicko (****)
Michael Clayton (****)
The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford (****-1/2)

DVDfile.com
DVDtalk.com

Lookin' at da TV:

"Lost"
"Battlestar Galactica"
"ER"
"Smallville"
"One Tree Hill"
"Queer Eye for the Straight Guy"
"The Simpsons"
"Top Chef"
"Father Ted"

Photography:

A Gallery for Fine Photography, New Orleans (Joshua Mann Pailet)
American Museum of Photography
California Museum of Photography, Riverside
International Center of Photography

Ansel Adams
Jonathan Fish
Noah Grey
Greg Guirard
Paul F. R. Hamilton
Clarence John Laughlin
Herman Leonard
Howard Roffman
J. T. Seaton
Jerry Uelsmann
Gareth Watkins
Brett Weston

The Mirror Project
(My pics therein: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.)

My photographs at Flickr

Comix:

The Amazing Adventures of Bill,
by Bill Roundy

Bloom County / Outland / Opus,
by Berkeley Breathed

Bob the Angry Flower,
by Stephen Notley

The Boondocks,
by Aaron McGruder

Calvin and Hobbes,
by Bill Watterson

Doonesbury,
by Garry B. Trudeau

Electric Sheep Comix
by Patrick Farley

Get Your War On
by David Rees

Goats
by Jonathan Rosenberg

L. A. Cucaracha
by Lalo Alcaraz

Leviathan,
by Peter Blegvad

Lil' Abner,
by Al Capp

Lulu Eightball,
by Emily Flake

The Mostly Unfabulous Social Life of Ethan Green,
by Eric Orner

Pogo,
by Walt Kelly

Suspect Device,
by Greg Peters

Ted Rall,
by Ted Rall

This Modern World,
by Tom Tomorrow

XQUZYPHYR & Overboard,
by August J. Pollak

Must-reads:

Polly Ticks:
AlterNet.org (Progressive politics & news)
Daily Kos (My favorite political weblog)
Eschaton (The Mighty Atrios)
Hullaballoo (The Mighty Digby)
Media Matters for America (Debunking right-wing media lies)
Orcinus (David Neiwert)
PostSecret (Secrets sent in via postcards; astonishingly beautiful, funny and sad.)
Talking Points Memo (Josh Marshall)
TAPPED (The American Prospect Online)
Think Progress
TruthOut (William Rivers Pitt & Co.)

Miscellany::
Borowitz Report
(Political satire)
The Complete Bushisms (quotationable!)
The Fray (Your stories)
Landover Baptist (Better Christians than YOU!)
Maledicta (The International Journal of Verbal Aggression)
The Morning Fix from SF Gate (Opinions, extreme irreverence)
The New York Review of Science Fiction
The Onion (Scarily funny news/satire)
"Rush, Newspeak and Fascism: An exegesis", by David Neiwert. (Read this.)
Whitehouse.org (Not the actual White House, but it should be)

Weblogs I read:

Alicublog
AmericaBlog
American Leftist
BoingBoing
The BradLands
Cardhouse
The Carpetbagger Report
Cheesedip
Crabwalk
Franklin Avenue
Ghost in the Machine
Hit or Miss
Jesus' General
kottke.org
Making Light
Neil Gaiman's Journal
Not Right About Anything
NowThis.com
Pandagon
August J. Pollak
Sadly, No!
telescreen.org
This Modern World
Your Right Hand Thief

L.A. Blogs

Friends with pages:

bill
chris
dule
ellen
jon
jordan
mary
mary katherine
michael p.
nancy
peter
robb
sean
steve
ted

The Final Frontier:

Astronomy Pic of the Day
ISS Alpha News
NASA Human Spaceflight
Spaceflight Now

SF:

Locus Magazine Online
SF Site
SFWA

Quotationable:

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that we are to stand by the president right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."

-- Theodore Roosevelt, 26th President of the United States (1901-1909), speaking in 1918

"There ought to be limits to freedom."

-- George W. Bush, May 21, 1999

"You don't get everything you want. A dictatorship would be a lot easier."

-- George W. Bush, describing what it's like to be governor of Texas, Governing Magazine, July 1998

"If this were a dictatorship, it would be a heck of a lot easier, just so long as I'm the dictator."

-- George W. Bush, CNN.com, December 18, 2000

"A dictatorship would be a heck of a lot easier, there's no question about it."

-- George W. Bush, Business Week, July 30, 2001

Made with Macintosh

Hosted by pair Networks

Déanta:  This page is coded by hand, with BBEdit 4.0.1 on an Apple G4 15" PowerBook running MacOS X 10.3 if I'm at home; occasionally with telnet and Pico on a FreeBSD Unix host running tcsh if I'm updating from work. (I never could get used to all those weblogging tools.)

LOOKA! Bia agus deoch, ceol agus craic.


 "Eating, drinking and carrying on..."  -- Adelaide Brennan



  Monday, June 30, 2008

Sazerac named New Orleans' official cocktail.   Oh frabjous day! Calooh! Callay!

But seriously ... it's cool, as it's part of the city's history and an acknowledgement of fine cocktails as being a part of the city's culinary fabric. Still though, it's unlikely to affect the number of tourists and frat boys who are going to quaff flammable product like Hand Grenades. I'm hoping that it helps some local bars actually learn how to make the drink properly. I've had a lot of bad Sazeracs in New Orleans, and I even heard through the grapevine about one local bar's "offical" house recipe for the drink -- it's so wrong that it's unsurprising that their Sazeracs are so bad.

(I swear, I'm ready to strangle you people who keep putting an inch of simple syrup in a Sazerac. WRONG WRONG WRONG. Yuck.)

It's not difficult. Listen to Lu Brow, one of my very favorite bartenders in New Orleans, teach you how to make one as she did for Robert Siegel on NPR last week. (Hi, Lu!)

The Top 50 Bars in New Orleans.   According to da Gambit, at least. I've been to 30 out of the 40, and the list is pretty good, more or less. We probably have different ideas as to what makse a great bar (the quality of the drinks doesn't always seem to make a difference in some highly-rated places), but it's a good, diverse list.

I do have to point out one place, even though I've never been there. Pravda, a new place on Decatur in the Quarter, comes in at no. 17 and the list claims that it "could be the hottest new bar in town." One of my bartender friends pointed out that they carry French and Swiss absinthes, which is great, and according to the picture accompanying the Gambit article they seem to have some nice accoutrements. However, the picture also shows them serving absinthe with a liquor-soaked sugar cube perched atop the spoon, on fire. When it comes to serving absinthe, this is just about the dictionary definition of "full of shit."

Lüke.   Chef John Besh's relatively new French-German brasserie with Creole touches has been on my must-do list since it opened, but somehow I managed not to get there until my visit home in May of this year. I did my best to catch up.

Wes and I met my uncle Mike there for lunch on Tuesday of Jazzefst mid-week. I thought it'd be perfect for Mike, as he works right in the CBD and it'd only be a two- or three-block walk for him. We, on the other hand, had to face parking in the CBD, on a day when for some reason they decided to mark every legal parking metered spot on Poydras as NO PARKING. Grr.

As it turned out, it was very much worth the parking hassle. The place is relaxed and casual, service is friendly and very efficient, and I really like the atmosphere, space and decor. They have an excellent bar, and is one of the few places in town still stocking a Spanish anise-flavored liquor called Ojen. In fact, on my first visit to Lüke, which was just for drinks, I had their Ojen Frappé, an almost-lost New Orleans classic consisting of a few ounces of Ojen stirred briskly with crushed ice and tinted with about five dashes of Peychaud's Bitters -- really, really good. (The liqueur is named for the town of Ojén in Spain, where it was once produced. I've heard conflicting stories as to its continued production; it's lost popularity in Spain, and apparently New Orleans is the only place where it's still consumed. One source claimed that it's ceased production and New Orleans' Ojen aficionadoes are working with existing stocks, yet at the bar they said they have no trouble getting it regularly, and it always seems to be on the shelf at Martin Wine Cellar, so who knows?)

The cocktail we did have was an excellent French 75, times three, although as usual in New Orleans it was the odd local version using Cognac instead of gin. It's still a good drink; I just prefer the original version.

We had been advised to get certain dishes to split, along with whatever else on the menu appealed to us, and it's a very appealing menu -- brasserie-style classics also join a fresh Louisiana seafood bar, with oysters, crabs and shrimp. Our eyes all zeroed in on this to start, though:

Flamenkuche, at Luke Brasserie, New Orleans

Flamenküche is a thin Alsatian onion tarte, with bacon, Emmenthaler cheese and caraway -- like a pizza, but with a crisper crust. The bacon was Allan Benton's, one of my favorites and a favorite of local chefs as well. Hoo-boy, this was good. (My French 75 is in the background.)

Crabmeat Maison

Crabmeat Maison is a beloved local dish, one very familiar to diners at Galatoire's. It's our local version of a crabmeat ravigote, combining jumbo lump crabmeat with capers, green onions and a dressing of mayonnaise, vinegar and Creole mustard for that New Orleans touch. Cool and comforting, gorgeous sweet crabmeat and a nice presentation with the frisée on top, too.

We had been told by all of our friends who had been there before us not to miss the burger, but that meant another three-way split. I'm game.

Luke Burger

They had all told us how great this was, and they were not wrong. The Lüke Burger is locally raised Charolais beef (medium rare), Allan Benton's bacon (hello again!), Gruyère cheese with a side of freshly cut and perfectly cooked pommes frites. I only got a third of it this time, but I'm going back for one that's aaaaaaaaaall for me.

This was voted the best local non-fast-food hamburger in the city this year, by the readers of either the Gambit or New Orleans Magazine, I forget which. (Best FF burger would have to be the local beloved Bud's Broiler, of course ... at least I hope it was.)

We were struggling with the extensive lunch menu and havign difficulty deciding, as it all looked so good, but then our server came by and read the specials. Our eyes bugged out at the mention of the lunch special, and we ALL got it. Here's why.

Fried Soft-Shell Crab BLT

This, my good friends, is a Soft Shell Crab BLT. Oh, holy crap. This was the first time they'd ever served it, and we were begging them to add it to the regular menu. A perfectly deep-fried soft-shell crab with Benton's bacon, with lettuce and tomato on toasted brioche. (This is the third dish we had with bacon in it. Are you sensing a motif? Yay, bacon! It was coincidental, though, I swear.)

Here's a closer view/

Fried Soft-Shell Crab BLT, close

This was stupendously good, although the brioche made it a bit too rich. I'd have been happy with this on French, and it's the only change I'd make to the dish.

There was no room for dessert, sadly. That was a lot of bacon. We'd be having more dessert later, though. For now ... we can dream of that burger next time we go.

[ Link to today's entries ]



  Tuesday, June 24, 2008

I used to be Irish Catholic, now I'm an American, y'know, you grow ...  

George Carlin, 1937-2008

Since I got my first George Carlin album sometime around the eighth grade, the man's been a fixture in my life. He made me laugh, yet he made me think. Politics, language, society, war, the absurdity of the human condition. Yes, he could do hilarious fart jokes, and then point out:

"The FCC, an appointed body, not elected, answerable only to the President, decided on its own that radio and television were the only two parts of American life not protected by the First Amendment to the Constitution."

Unfortunately, the Supreme Court backed them up. They're terribly afraid of The Words.

Everyone else did this earlier; I couldn't bring myself to do it just yet. What I did yesterday was to take Carlin's entire recorded output (or close to it) and put it in my iPod. I've been listening ever since. Some of it I knew so well I could practially deliver the routine along with him; some of it I hadn't heard in a while and it became fresh again. There's plenty out there -- just go to YouTube and start looking. You can get most of his recorded output, as I did, via digital downloads from eMusic (alas, my old LPs didn't go easily into my iPod).

And yes, I do reach past the first few slices of bread in a new loaf, to get to the good bread.

I don't think it's hit me yet how much I'm gonna miss him.

Shit, piss, fuck, cunt, cocksucker, mothefucker and tits. Fart, turd, twat. And all the rest ...

RIP Wing.   I'm really goddamn sick of writing obituary posts.

Wing
(Photo by Steve Hochman.)

If you've been to Jazzfest you at least have seen this man, if not known his name. This is Wing -- that's how he introduced himself. He was from northern California, living on a ranch he called "Wingspread." He was usually seen in the Gospel Tent, dancing his heart out all over everywhere. Sometimes he'd be at Congo Square and very occasionally at the Blues Tent. He danced, and he experienced joy and spread joy wherever he went. He loved music and he loved Jazzfest and even though we really didn't know him we always stopped to chat. He was a part of Jazzfest.

This year we didn't see him, and we were worried -- we knew he had been ill for the last few years.

It was posted on a thread in the Jazzfest forums that Wing died recently of stage 4 lymphoma. One of the Threadheads posted this email, which had been forwarded to him, apparently by someone to whom Wing had sent it:

there once was a man name of wing,
who decided one last final thing,
it's now time to leave
take rest all bereaved
i'm off to my greatest final fling!

the wingman/ dancerboy has left the dance floor

to all my friends,

by this email know that wing / dancerboy no longer exists in the form you knew him as.

i have chosen to end my life.

my cancer returned in symptomatic form 10 months ago. after a biopsy and series of scans i elected not to receive treatment. once was enough and i figured what the hell, my 2 favorite dancers, sanna and david are gone so who wants to be the lone ranger, kemosabe!

i chose not to share the information for the following reasons:

why upset everybody?
don't have to justify my reasoning to anyone
don't have to listen to everyone's aunt marthe's famous cancer cure
i liked living the quiet life i have led which surely would have changed dramatically (i assume) ie visitors, call, etc etc.

it was just easier to keep on rolling along as life surely does.

now i imagine some of you might have wondered what was up, since there was no jazz fest or travel to the islands for winter dancing and fun. now you know.

The Gospel Tent will never quite be the same.

RIP Wing, 1949-2008

The Cocktail Spirit, with Robert Hess.   A nice combo here -- a wonderfully complex rum drink by Dale DeGroff, and the indulgence of my glassware fetish.

The Añejo Highball

The Añejo Highball was created by famed mixologist Dale DeGroff to pay homage to the celebrated bartenders of Cuba from back in the Twenties and Thirties. Dale says that this drink illustrates how necessary it is for the bartender to understand the role that each and every ingredient plays in the cocktails that they make.

#     #     #

Glassware

The vessel from which we drink our cocktails should not be overlooked. Whether traditional, iconic or modern the glassware used in serving a guest says a lot about what is inside.

The vessel with the pestle has the pellet with the poison; the flagon with the dragon has the brew that is true! Wait ... was it ... ?

I've got it stuck somewhere in my head that the original recipe for the Añejo Highball contained 1/4 ounce of pimento dram (allspice liqueur), but the recipe had to be adjusted once the Wray & Nephew product became unavailable in the U.S. I checked the recipe in New Classic Cocktails and there was no mention of it, but I can't for the life of me remember where I might have come across this. It sounds good at any rate, and I've made the drink this way too -- it's terrific. If you want to keep the sweet-tart ratio in balance you can add another 1/4 ounce of lime juice if you like.

[ Link to today's entries ]



  Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Mixology Monday recap.   HUGE response this month, so go check out a ton of Bourbon drinks at Scofflaw's Den.

Emeril's.   It had been a long time.

I'd been at Chef Emeril Lagasse's first and flagship restaurant any number of times (and way before he became a T.V. Star), but when Wes pointed out to me that he'd never been there I thought back. The most recent visit was in 1998, with a bunch of friends who were all in town for Michael and Louise's wedding. And they just had their tenth anniversary. Kinda scary, actually ... who knows where the time goes indeed. We'd just tried other places, kept going back to old favorites, and Emeril's -- where I'd never had any meal that was less than terrific, and where I've had one or two of the most memorable restaurant meals of my life -- just kinda slipped to the side. I realized that we were long, long overdue, and I resolved to fix that on this last trip home.

I made reservations for the two of us, but as the date approached and I mentioned it to Mary she said, "Ooh! They've been talking to me about coming back and updating their entry in Frommer's!" Mary, as I've mentioned before, writes the fabulous guidebook Frommer's New Orleans, and the Emeril's entry was several years old (and the one before that was contributed by me, long before my last visit ... so that's old). She asked if we'd mind her and Steve horning in on our dinner for two, and I said, "Of course not! The hornier the better!" (Actually, I didn't, I thought of that just now, but it would have been funny if I had said it at the time. Unfortunately my talent for coming up with great on-the-spot jokes often only works if the spot is two months later. And it's not that funny anyway.)

Of course, Mary coming along changes the dynamic of the meal a bit. She's a travel writer, not a restaurant critic, and doesn't behave as some of these stealthy, wig-and-dark-glasses-wearing, false name-bearing, Double Top Secret writers do. The restaurants know her and when she's coming, the reasoning being, "If I get lousy food and service with them knowing they have a travel writer in the house, how do you think Mr. and Mrs. John Q. Yat are going to be treated?" It usually works, too.

There's a bit of a myth about the whole "Ooh, there's a VIP in the house! Extra special treatment!" thing. The kitchen is generally busy enough such that they tend not to have time to do anything really out of the ordinary -- they might just triple-check the dish at the pass to make sure it's perfect, that kind of thing, but the most likely thing that'll happen is that they just send out an extra dish or two for you to try. There's a whole restaurant full of people for the back and front of the house to keep happy, and that keeps them pretty damn busy. More often than not, nobody has time to make a fuss over anyone. That said, I brightened at the thought of the possibility of an extra dish or two being sent out for us to taste!

So Monday night of Jazzfest week, we finally went to Emeril's. It looked just the same from the outside, a little different on the inside -- the food bar looked bigger, for one. (The food bar's a lot of fun, by the way. If it had just been the two of us I'd have seriously considered eating there.) The major difference we noticed after a bit was primarily in the service.

The service, I have to say first off, was great. Friendly, knowledgeable, embracing without being intrusive. But different. In the past there had been complaints about the service at Emeril's from some people. They found it snooty or condescending, and often felt talked down to if they weren't expert foodies. In many visits to Emeril's I have never encountered this. I found the servers to be excited, zealous and very worshipful of "Chef." They also tended to be young, college-age, culinary school types, many from outside of the city. There were few to none of those in attendance the night we were there -- it seemed that the servers were mostly locals, folks from the neighborhoods, and a lot of really young folks in secondary and training positions like our assistant waiter / busser. I had read that Emeril's has been working with (and contributing lots of money to) an outfit called Café Reconcile, which is both a working restaurant and training school working with at-risk youth to learn "life and interpersonal skills and operational training for successful entry into the hospitality and restaurant industries." It's located in Central City, one of the most blighted and economically depressed neighborhoods in the city, and they work hard to get kids off the streets, away from drugs and teach them restaurant industry skills that will enable them to get jobs just about anywhere. "You worked at Emeril's? You're hired." The Emeril Lagasse Foundation recently gave a quarter of a million dollars to double the working space at Reconcile to establish a culinary learning center, which is fantastic.

Our busser looked as if he still had anywhere from two to four years to go before he was out of his teens, and he was very earnest. He'd been well-trained on the right time to fill water glasses, how to serve bread rolls, and so forth. There was one slight misstep, when he began to clear my plate before everyone else had finished (a major pet peeve of mine), but from behind we heard a distinct throat-clear. It was our waiter, who took him aside and gently admonished him: "Don't clear the plates until everyone's finished." Yeah you rite! It was very clear that there was lots of on the job training going on, but that's good. Throw 'em into the frying pan, that's how you learn. At one point Mary asked him, "Wow, so this is a good job, huh? Are they treating you well here?" or something like that. He smiled and nodded, but then got a look in his eyes that said, "I had no idea what I was getting myself into." I know how he feels. A restaurant like this is a hugely complex operation, and there's a mindboggling amount of stuff to learn. From being with him all night, though, we had no doubt that he'd learn it, all of it, and learn it well. After that solid experience and the chance to work his way up, once he does he'll be able to write his own ticket. That's awesome.

It was a really different feel than before. And it was great. Great great great. It gave me a bit more of a down-home feel in that restaurant that I'd never had there before, but the additional knowledge that Emeril is doing so much for the people of the city, especially the disadvantaged and at-risk population to whom Reconcile is reaching out, really makes me feel good. Emeril took a lot of unwarranted crap right after Katrina for not physically being in the city, but he was keeping New Orleans in the public eye, continuing to pay his staff plus all this great work with Reconcile ... great job, Chef.

Oh yeah, the food.

Amuse bouche: Grilled Shrimp with Crispy Artichoke and Olive Tartar Sauce

They brought out an amuse bouche, as they've always done. This one was simple but very tasty -- Grilled Shrimp with Crispy Artichoke and Olive Tartar Sauce. Great seasoning on the shrimp, perfectly cooked (of course), artichokes om nom nom nom and an unusual flavor component to the tartar that gave it a bit of intensity and character, as tartar sauce tends to be boo-ring.

We looked through the list of appetizers and I saw two that were still on the menu from when I had been there last, which I remembered from years before that and which had probably been on the menu more or less from the beginning -- the Angel Hair Pasta with a Tasso Cream Sauce and Smoked Exotic Mushrooms (a great dish) and the Barbecue Shrimp, his own take, with the yummy little rosemary biscuits. The house-made andouille with house-made Worcestershire was still there too, but joined on the plate by house-made boudin, Southern cooked greens and beer-braised onions -- sounds better than before. Plus the rest of the recent batch of starters, and a list of four salads. We couldn't help but notice that out of the four salads, three of them contained bacon or pork products of some kind. "Yeah," the chef told us later, "we do love bacon around here." Well guh. And you had four worshippers at the First Congregational Church of Bacon right here, bra.

Steve, Wes and I all zeroed in on the same salad, after reading the menu description. "Oh my God," I said. They echoed the same. Here's the menu description, verbatim: "Abita Root Beer-Braised "Fresh Bacon" Salad: Niman Ranch pork belly braised in Abita root beer and seared, with citrus slaw, marinated yuca, heirloom radishes, shaved jalapenos, goat cheese and pork cracklins." Umm ... yes. Yes, we'll have that.

Abita Root 
Beer-Braised "Fresh Bacon" Salad

We had been mildly amused at the euphemistic way that the words "fresh bacon" were placed in quotation marks in the dish's description on the menu. Actually, it was the word "salad" that should have been put in quotation marks. If I may employ an Internetism ... ROFLMAO! (I was truly rolling on the floor, laughing with Chairman Mao.) We laughed like idiots when the dishes were placed in front of us. The aroma coming off the plate was intoxicating. And the sight of it!

This was insanely, insanely good, but again ... salad? There was about four times more pork belly than vegetable matter on the plate. Not that I'm complaining, mind you. Reminds me of what a friend once said the first time I took him to New Orleans: "Leave it to you people to make a salad bad for you." Oh, we enjoyed the little salady bits, which were a nice accompaniment to the FOUR GIGANTIC FECKIN' SLABS OF PORK BELLY, meaty, fatty, crispy, with layers of seasoning, and delicious, and unctuous, and did I say FOUR GIGANTIC FECKIN' SLABS OF PORK BELLYI?! I tried to think of how much more food we had coming, and stopped. No point in that. We cross that bridge as we come to it.

Mary, displaying some common sense unlike the four ravenous, caveman-like males at the table ("OOK WANT MEAT!"), went with her instincts and ordered the FOUR GIGANTIC FECKIN' SLABS OF PORK BELLY as her main course, and got a very sensible, and very lovely starter:

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with Shallots, Quail Egg, Herbed Creole Cream Cheese and Garlic Crostini

That's a Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with Shallots, Quail Egg, Herbed Creole Cream Cheese and Garlic Crostini. Lovely tuna, bit of a kick to it, nice garnish with the egg, and I could eat Creole cream cheese in any form or fashion, savory or dessert. Here's the kind of dish that allows you to eat FOUR GIGANTIC FECKIN' SLABS OF PORK BELLY as your main and not be Mr. Creosote at the end of the meal. Not only that, I think Mary had a suspicion as to what might happen at the end of the meal, and planned accordingly. Unlike the rest of us.

As usual, when being presented with a menu full of amazing-sounding chioces, I was torn. I had narrowed it down to two, one of the main menu items, and one of that night's specials. I had had pork already in the starter, FOUR GIGANTIC FECKIN' SLABS OF PORK BELLY, in fact, but the pork dish special sounded somewhat intriguing. "Pork breast?" That's how it was described. What the hell's pork breast? I'd never heard that term used before. It was "chile-glazed," accompanied by something called "crispy crab rice" and a jalapeño bok choi "slaw." (Quotes theirs.) Intriguing, maybe. But I dunno.

I asked both our server Herman (who was awesome) and one of the hosts, and they both chose the other dish, with the hostess saying that it was her favorite dish on the menu, and our server praised it as well. Neither of them had had an opportunity to try the pork special, though. Wes also thought about it, as did Steve, but we all ended up going for different things, and here's what we got ... me first.

Oyster-Crusted 
Atlantic Salmon

Oyster-Crusted Atlantic Salmon with dill-preserved Yukon Gold potatoes, "tuna bacon" asparagus, and a fennel-cauliflower Béarnaise sauce. Thick, gorgeous piece of salmon, pan-seared and then finished in the oven with a layer of oyster dressing -- a bit crispy on the outside, moist and juicy on the inside, and I love oyster dressing. This was amazing. The "tuna bacon" wrapped around the asparagus was interesting. They had taken slabs of tuna and subjected it to the same kind of cure and smoke as they do with housemade bacon, sliced that thinly and wrapped the asparagus with it. Far lower in fat, good flavor and a very creative idea, although I'm afraid I found it to be a bit dry. No worries, though, as it was a minor component in the dish (which would still have shone without it, actually). The Béarnaise was enriched with a purée of cauliflower, and it was delicious. Fantastic dish!

Pan-Seared Filet of 
Beef with Creamy Mascarpone Polenta

Wes went for the Pan-Seared Filet of Beef with Creamy Mascarpone Polenta, Slow-roasted Pork Belly, Wilted Swiss Chard, Tomato Confit and Goat Cheese. Some people just can't get enough pork belly, apparently! Actually it was just a small part of the dish's symphony of flavors, and that was one beautiful, tender and rosy red medium-rare piee of meat. A lot of people criticize filet mignon for having little flavor, but this one didn't skimp in that department. The accompaniments were terrific too, although I only had a bite. Perhaps Wes will elaborate.

Andouille-Crusted 
Texas Redfish

Steve went for what's probably the most popular dish on the menu: Andouille-Crusted Texas Redfish with grilled vegetables, shoestring potatoes and a Creole meunière sauce. There's been a simliar dish on the menu for ages, and I don't think the clientele will allow them to take it off. What's one of the greatest ways to cook fish? Add some pork to it!

Right after our entrées arrived, Sous Chef Scott Maki (who was running the kitchen that night as Chef de Cuisine David Slater was off that night) emerged bearing one more dish. "Here's a li'l lagniappe for y'all," he said, and set down ... the evening's pork special.

Roasted Chile-Glazed Pork Belly, Crispy Crab Rice, Jalapeno Bok Choi "Slaw"

As written on the specials menu: Roasted Chile-Glazed Pork Belly, Crispy Crab Rice, Jalapeno Bok Choi "Slaw." He was eager for us to try it, knowing that we were foodies. "I just can't give these away tonight," he lamented. "Nobody's ordering it." As the four of us dug into it, we tried to think of why that would be but got distracted, because ... it was a superb dish.

When we read "chile-glazed" we assumed a Latin or Southwestern flavor profile, but this was very Asian -- spicy but a touch of sweet as well. "Pork breast" is, guess what. PORK BELLY! A HUGE FECKIN' SLAB OF IT! Chef was trying to come up with a more creative menu description, as this was a meatier cut than the pork belly he used for the "salad," and he didn't want people to be scared off by thinking it was too fatty. It was amazing, richly flavored, just unctuous enough from the strata of fat in the meat but still good 'n porky. Perhaps the most delightful component of the dish was the so-called "crispy crab rice," the menu description of which having done little to no justice to how wonderful those two little golf-ball-sized balls of rice were. They tasted not like Asian jasmine rice but like the local variety referred to as "popcorn rice," filled with delicate flakes of crabmeat, delicately crunchy when you eat it but you feel the crunch, and it's fun. They were so much fun to eat that we laughed as we were doing it. Wes told Chef Scott, "I don't mean to demean these by any means, but you could separate them from this dish, put them on sticks and sell them at Jazzfest. There'd be lines all the way to the next food area." Altogether it was fun, entertaining, delicious and beautifully integrated dish, and the only reason we could think of why they weren't flying out of the kitchen was just the way the dish was written up on the menu. While the andouille-crusted redfish was indeed flying out of the kitchen, Chef Scott sold very few of his pork special that night. That's a great big shame.

Everything was fantastic.

We were looking forward to being brought the dessert menu and were wondering what we'd get -- Wes was fixated on the restuarant's signature dessert, their infamous Banana Cream Pie, and as we were plotting to get maybe two desserts and split them between the four of us, we saw an unusually large number of wait staff heading toward our table. Uh oh.

Oh no.

OH MY GOOOOOOOD! DESSERT BOMB!!!

Well, it makes sense. The travel book writer is here for the first time in years, to update the long-overdue-for-an-update entry for the restaurant in the book, which is the bestselling travel guide to New Orleans. They want her to taste lots of stuff.

So we were therefore bludgeoned with that longtime Brennan restaurant tradition (which is where I suspect Emeril picked it up, having started his career as an executive chef at Commander's), the Dessert Bomb. If you're not familiar with it, it's when they send out one of each dessert on the menu to your table. In this case, it was nine desserts. For four people.

Along with the squadron of servers was Chef Scott along with a shy-looking young girl from the kitchen. He introduced her to us (I'm sorry that I forgot her name) and said, "She's from our pastry department, and she's going to tell you all about what you're having for dessert tonight." Undoubtedly another Café Reconcile intern / trainee. Wow, more on-the-job-training! She was smiling but clearly nervous but went through each dish, only stumbling once on the word "meringue," which clearly she forgot due to nerves. Chef gently prompted her, and she went on through everything. We applauded and thanked her. This was great, and I remarked that it's kinda like being in the restaurant equivalent of a teaching hospital, although with raspberry coulis instead of blood and a lot less drama. (Well, a little less.)

Shall we begin? Try to keep up.

Emeril's Famous Banana Cream Pie

The restaurant's signature dessert, Emeril's Banana Cream Pie with Banana Crust, Caramel Drizzle Sauce and Chocolate Shavings, developed by Chef Emeril and his original pastry chef, Mr. Lou. The first time I had this I turned into a Hutt. (A very, very happy Hutt.) The first time my brother-in-law Jeff had this he said nothing, just moaned and pounded on the table. It's become fairly infamous for its richness and decadence, especially since a local food writer's analysis revealed that each serving of this pie contains 1,595 calories and 85 grams of fat. For all you WeightWatchers folks, that's 38 points. For one dessert.

Wes ate about a third of it himself.

Peanut Butter 
Chocolate Cake

Peanut Butter Chocolate Cake with a Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Cookie and Fresh Berries. This tied for our second favorite.

Creole Bread Pudding 
with Rum Sauce and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Creole Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Classic Creole, beautifully executed.

Trio of Sorbets, 
Trio of Ice Creams

Emeril's serves a different trio of sorbets and ice creams, all house-made, every night. There have been evenings at Emeril's where I wanted dessert, but all I could manage was their sorbets, which fortuately are always wonderful. This could have been one of those nights, but alas, it was not meant to be. I got my sorbets, and a whole lot more. Tonight's selection? Passion fruit, Chocolate and Raspberry Sorbets. Coconut, Strawberry and Vanilla Bean Ice Creams. All wonderful. This is the only one we completely finished.

Chocolate Truffle 
Torte with Raspberry Coulis

Chocolate Truffle Torte with Raspberry Coulis, Fresh Berries and Chocolate Peanut Crackle.

Hazelnut Creme 
Brulee

Hazelnut Crème Brûlée with Fresh Berries.

Lemon Tart

Lemon Tart with Brûléed Meringue.

J.K.'s Chocolate 
Grand Marnier Souffle

Finally, their other signature dessert, on the menu since way back when -- J. K.'s Chocolate Grand Marnier Soufflé with Chocolate Sauce. Oh my.

It was worth the wait, although the wait shouldn't have been that long. I had heard criticisms of the restaurant as having gone down in quality, with Chef Emeril himself rarely in the kitchen anymore. I think those were people who might have had an isolated bad night (all restaurants have them) or the type who just ain't happy unless they ain't happy. Chef Emeril's the Emperor now, and he's got great people in the kitchen here running the place for him, cooking with his vision but cooking their food. Chef de Cuisine David Slater's dishes are terrific, and from the time we got to spend with Sous Chef Scott Maki and his own inventive dishes that night, we know this kitchen's in great hands. In the front of the house we've got down-home locals mostly manning the floor, putting kids from Café Reconcile through their paces so that they can get steady work, provide for their families and themselves and contribute to the city and its tourism and hospitality industries (still in desperate need of good people). It's the best of both worlds.

If there was any criticism of the entire experience that night, it was a fairly odd and seemingly minor one, but not as minor as you might think given its importance to sales. The menu was ugly.

Back in the day Emeril's had a very stylized and unique look to its menu, green and beige with a particular font and well-laid out. The menus this time were in generic brown menu folders, and were one dull, drab font from top to bottom, not a very creative layout and actually kind of difficult to read. Nothing caught the eye or led the eye in any particular direction on the page, and those of you who know the restaurant world know how important menu design is. It was fairly bizarre, actually, and although we managed to get a spectacular meal on the table that night others might not fare so well. For Gawd's sake, y'all, hire a graphic designer with menu design experience and get him or her to revamp the look of the menu, pronto!

Once again, a very, very memorable meal at Emeril's. I promise it won't be ten years until the next time.

[ Link to today's entries ]



  Monday, June 16, 2008

Mixology Monday: Bourbon.   Wonder of wonders, miracle of miracles, I didn't forget this month's MxMo. By sheer coincidence, the topic happens to correlate nicely with a project I was working on this weekend, too!

Mixology Monday

First off, though, just in case someone else is already doing the cocktail I've chosen for my MxMo entry (and I suspect others will), I'll post as my (I hope) fail-safe entry a longtime favorite of ours -- it's appeared here before, but still isn't known as far and wide as I'd like it to be. I'm still hazy on its origins to this day, although I'm fairly certain that it's fairly old, so if you've got any leads or early references please do chime in.

The Fancy-Free Cocktail

2 ounces Bourbon whiskey.
1/2 ounce Maraschino liqueur.
1 dash Angostura Bitters.
1 dash orange bitters.

Combine with ice in a mixing glass and stir for no less than 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a Luxardo or brandied cherry.

Now ... last week I came across a video on the New York Magazine website about a drink that, if it's successful, might just have to become the new Offical Cocktail of the Fat Pack. It comes from bartender Don Lee of PDT ("Please Don't Tell") in New York City, and as soon as I heard about it I thought it could very well have been created Just For Me.

It calls for a specialty ingredient, an infused Bourbon, which I made last night -- finished just before I went to bed, in fact -- but still haven't tasted, as alcohol right before bed seems to exacerbate my snoring. Nobody wants that.

Oh, what kind of infusion, you're wondering? Potentially The Perfect Infusion for me and mine ... bacon-infused Bourbon.

They do call specifically for Allan Benton's bacon, which happens to be one of our favorite and we frequently have it on hand, as we did this weekend. I cooked four slices in the oven, strained and reserved the fat, then Wes and I ate the bacon. I like this drink recipe already.

It follows the standard Old Fashioned recipe, for me going back to my childhood, just adding the infusion and substituting the syrup. Seems like a natural. Let's make one.

Benton's Old Fashioned
(by Don Lee, PDT, New York)

2 ounces bacon-infused Bourbon.
1/4 ounce grade-B maple syrup.
2 dashes Angostura bitters.
Orange peel.

Combine with ice in a mixing glass, stir for no less than 30 seconds and strain into a chilled rocks glass over fresh ice. Express the orange oil from the peel over the glass, rub the rim with the peel and optionally garnish with the peel.

For the bacon-infused bourbon:

750ml Bourbon (we used Buffalo Trace).
1 ounce bacon fat, strained, from Allan Benton's bacon or your own favorite bacon.

Add the bacon fat to the bourbon in a wide-mouthed jar, shake or stir vigorously and allow to steep for four hours, shaking or stirring periodically. After it's infused for 4 hours place the jar in the freezer for two hours. Strain the bourbon through a fine-mesh strainer to remove the congealed fat.

Benton's Old Fashioned

Okay, here we go ... let's take a sip.

Hmm ... not bad. Very smoky, but not very porky, and a nice balance from the maple. I like it, but ... it needs work. Oddly enough, as much as I like Benton's I think it might not be the right bacon for this, for my palate. I'd like to try this again with a bacon that's less smoky and more porky, maybe a good jowl bacon or something. Grateful Palate and Bacon of the Month Club folks, here I come!

Even after the fall of civilization ...   there must still be bacon. At least for a while.

Ohh, I dunno ... I have to confess that it looks kinda gross. And I'm not willing to buy a case of it to find out. Has anyone tasted this stuff?

[ Link to today's entries ]



  Friday, June 13, 2008

Triskaidekaphiles, rejoice!   Today is our day! I would suspect that the Higher Order would consider this day a prime time for scientific experimentation, and perhaps the decades-long, tireless efforts of this planet's greatest scientific genius, Dr. Momus Alexander Morgus, M.D., at his laboratory in the Old City Icehouse in New Orleans, will solve all of humanity's problems. Dr. Morgus, author of such scholarly tomes as New Hope for the Dead and Molecules I Have Known as well as the famed inventor of "instant people," is also the discoverer of the speed of dark, and despite what annoying Republicans keep incorrectly saying about Al Gore, was the actual inventor of the Internet.

The man, the legend ... with his trusty assitant Chopsley and his supercomputer E.R.I.C. (the Eon Research Infinity Computer) with its cranioskeletal interface:

Morgus, E.R.I.C. and Chopsley

As usual, you must forgive Chopsley for his shrouded appearance ... he was a classmate of Dr. Morgus in medical school, and volunteered for one of the doctor's early, pioneering experiments in face transplant technology. Unfortunately during his recovery Chopsley laughed before he was entirely healed ... ahem.

Here's the doctor again, demonstrating his Talent Machine:

Truly, one day this man will save the world.

Dr. Morgus' experiments would be assisted greatly if you'd turn out all your lights and watch a scary film tonight. But not too scary ...

Father Dougal: Ted! Can I stay up to watch the scary fillum?

Father Ted: Ah, no no no. The last time you stayed up to watch a scary fillum you ended up having to sleep in my bed. I wouldn't mind, but it wasn't even a scary fillum.

Father Dougal: Come on, Ted. A Volkswagen with a mind of its own. If that isn't scary, I don't know what is.

OwwwwoooOOOOOOOOoooooo, scary k