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looka, <'lu-k&> dialect, v.
1. The imperative form of the verb "to look", in the spoken vernacular of New Orleans; usually employed when the speaker wishes to call one's attention to something.
2. --n. Chuck Taggart's weblog, hand-made and updated (almost) daily, focusing on food and drink, music (especially of the roots variety), New Orleans and Louisiana culture, news of the reality-based community, movies, books, sf, public radio, media and culture, travel, Macs, liberal and progressive politics, humor and amusements, reviews, rants, the author's life and opinions, witty and/or smart-arsed comments and whatever else tickles the author's fancy.
Please feel free to contribute a link if you think I'll find it interesting. If you don't want to read my opinions, feel free to go elsewhere.If you like, you are welcome to send e-mail to the author. Your comments on each post are also welcome; however, right-wing trolls are about as welcome as a boil on my arse. Search this site:
Now available! "Doctors, Professors, Kings and Queens: The Big Ol' Box of New Orleans" is a 4-CD box set celebrating the joy and diversity of the New Orleans music scene, from R&B to jazz to funk to Latin to blues to zydeco to klezmer (!) and more, including a full-size, 80-page book.
Produced, compiled and annotated by Chuck Taggart (hey, that's me!), liner notes by Mary Herczog (author of Frommer's New Orleans) and myself. Now for sale at your favorite independent record stores, or order from BarnesAndNoble.com.Here are some nice blurbs from the reviews (a tad immodest, I know; I'm not generally one to toot my own horn, but let's face it, I wanna sell some records here.)
* * * "More successfully than any previous compilation, Doctors... captures the sprawling eclecticism, freewheeling fun and constant interplay of tradition and innovation that is at the heart of Crescent City music." -- Keith Spera, New Orleans Times-Picayune.
"... if you DO know someone who's unfortunate enough to have never heard these cuts, press this monumentally adventurous box and its attendant booklet upon them. It's never too late to learn" -- Robert Fontenot, OffBeat magazine, New Orleans
"... the best collection yet of Louisiana music." -- Scott Jordan, The Independent, Lafayette, Louisiana.
"[T]he year's single most awesome package" -- Buddy Blue, San Diego Union-Tribune
"This four-CD box set doesn't miss a Crescent City beat ... For anyone who has enjoyed the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, this is Jazz Fest in a box. ***1/2" -- Dave Hoekstra, Chicago Sun-Times
"... excellently compiled, wonderfully annotated ... New Orleans fans will know much of this by heart, though they may not remember it sounding so good; those who don't know what it's like to miss New Orleans will quickly understand." -- Terry Lawson, Detroit Free Press.
"... a perfect storm when it comes to reissues. This box set is musically exciting, a complete representation of its subject matter, and just plain fun to listen." -- Charlie B. Dahan, AllAboutJazz.com
"... one of the best impressions of a city's musical blueprint that you're likely to ever find." -- Zeth Lundy, PopMatters.com
"... an unacademic, uncategorized album that suits the city's time-warped party spirit." -- Jon Pareles, The New York Times
Quotationable: "To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that we are to stand by the president right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."
-- Theodore Roosevelt, 26th President of the United States (1901-1909), speaking in 1918"There ought to be limits to freedom."
-- George W. Bush, May 21, 1999"You don't get everything you want. A dictatorship would be a lot easier."
-- George W. Bush, describing what it's like to be governor of Texas, Governing Magazine, July 1998"If this were a dictatorship, it would be a heck of a lot easier, just so long as I'm the dictator."
-- George W. Bush, CNN.com, December 18, 2000"A dictatorship would be a heck of a lot easier, there's no question about it."
-- George W. Bush, Business Week, July 30, 2001
Looka! Archive
(99 and 44/100% link rot)2004: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2003: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2002: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2001: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2000: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
1999: Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
How to donate to this site: Your donations help keep this site going. PayPal's the best way -- just click the button below, and thanks!
You can also donate via the Amazon.com Honor System, if you wish (but they deduct a larger fee from your donation and I keep less).
(Also, here's a shameless link to my Amazon Wish List.)
Buy stuff! You can get Gumbo Pages designs on T-shirts, mugs and mousepads at The Gumbo Pages Swag Shop!
Friends with pages: dule
ellen
jon
jordan
mary katherine
michael p.
nancy
pat and paul
peter
robb
sean
steve
ted
todd
tracy and david
Talking furniture: KCSN (Los Angeles)
Broadcast schedule
"Down Home" playlist
Live MP3 audio stream
Subscribe to the
"Down Home" weekly
playlist email service
WWOZ (New Orleans)
Broadcast schedule
Live audio stream
PublicRadioFan.com
(Comprehensive listings)
Air America Radio
(Talk radio for the
rest of us)
Folkscene
Joe Frank
Grateful Dead Radio
(Streaming complete
shows!)
KPIG, 107 Oink 5
(Freedom, CA)
KRVS Radio Acadie
(Lafayette, LA)
LouisianaRadio.com
Mike Hodel's "Hour 25"
(Science fiction radio)
Radio Free New Orleans
Raidió na Gaeltachta
(Irish language)
RootsWorld's Rootsradio
RTÉ Radio Ceolnet
(Irish trad. music)
WXDU (Durham, NC)
Cocktail hour: CocktailDB
The Internet's most comprehensive
and indispensible database of
authenticated cocktail recipes,
ingredients, reseearch and more.
By Martin Doudoroff & Ted Haigh)
Museum of the American Cocktail
Founded by Dale DeGroff and many
other passionate spirits, Jan. 2005.
Celebrating a true American cultural
icon: the American Cocktail.
* * * The Sazerac Cocktail
(The sine qua non of cocktails,
and the quintessential New Orleans
cocktail. Learn to make it.)
The Footloose Cocktail
(An original by Wes;
"Wonderful!" - Gary Regan.
"Very elegant, supremely
sophisticated" - Daniel Reichert.)
The Hoskins Cocktail
(An original by Chuck;
"It's nothing short of a
masterpiece." - Gary Regan)
Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Menu
(A few things we like to
drink at home, plus a couple
we don't, just for fun.)
* * * The Alchemist
(Paul Harrington)
Alcohol (and how to mix it)
(David Wondrich)
Ardent Spirits
(Gary & Mardee Regan)
DrinkBoy and the
Community for the
Cultured Cocktail
(Robert Hess, et al.)
DrinkBoy's Cocktail Weblog
Happy Hours
(Beverage industry
news & insider info)
King Cocktail
(Dale DeGroff)
La Fée Verte
(All about absinthe
from Kallisti et al.)
LUPEC.org
(Ladies United for the
Preservation of
Endangered Cocktails)
Fine Spirits & Cocktails
(eGullet's forum)
The Modern Mixologist
(Tony Abou-Ganim)
Mr. Lucky's Cocktails
(Sando, LaDove,
Swanky et al.)
Nat Decants
(Natalie MacLean)
Tastings.com
(Beverage Tasting
Institute journal)
Vintage Cocktails
(Daniel Reichert)
Let's eat! New Orleans Menu Daily
Food-related weblogs:
Appetites
Chocolate and Zucchini
Honest Cuisine
KIPlog's FOODblog
MeatHenge
Mise en Place
Notes from a New Orleans Foodie
Sauté Wednesday
Simmer Stock
Tasting Menu
More food!
à la carte
Chef Talk Café
Chowhound
eGullet
Epicurious
Food Network
The Global Gourmet
A Muse for Cooks
The Online Chef
Pasta, Risotto & You
Slow Food Int'l. Movement
So. Calif. Farmer's Markets
Zagat Guide
&c.
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In vino veritas. The Oxford Companion to Wine
Wally's Wine and Spirits
The Wine House
wines.com
The Wine Spectator
Wine Today
Reading this month: The Plot Against America, by Philip Roth.
The Cat's Pajamas, by Ray Bradbury.
Microcosmic God: The Complete Stories of Theodore Sturgeon, Vol. 2, by Theodore Sturgeon.
Shade, by Neil Jordan.
Listen to music! Chuck's current album recommendations
Altan
BeauSoleil
Beck
Luka Bloom
La Bottine Souriante
Billy Bragg
Cordelia's Dad
Jay Farrar
Kíla
Sonny Landreth
Los Lobos
Christy Moore
Nickel Creek
The Old 97s
Anders Osborne
Planxty
The Proclaimers
Professor Longhair
Red Meat
The Red Stick Ramblers
The Reivers
Zachary Richard
Paul Sanchez
Marc Savoy
Son Volt
Spink
Richard Thompson
Uncle Tupelo
Wilco
Miles of Music
No Depression
RootsWorld
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival
San Francisco Celtic Music & Arts Festival
Appalachian String Band Music Festival - Clifftop, WV
Long Beach Bayou Festival
Strawberry Music Festival - Yosemite, CA
Photography: A Gallery for Fine Photography, New Orleans (Joshua Mann Pailet)
American Museum of Photography
California Museum of Photography, Riverside
International Center of Photography
Ansel Adams
Jonathan Fish
Noah Grey
Greg Guirard
Paul F. R. Hamilton
Clarence John Laughlin
Herman Leonard
Howard Roffman
J. T. Seaton
Jerry Uelsmann
Gareth Watkins
Brett Weston
The Mirror Project
(My pics therein: 1, 2, 3.)
Chuck's Photo of the Day Archive
Comix: The Amazing Adventures of Bill,
by Bill Roundy
Bloom County / Outland / Opus,
by Berkeley Breathed
Bob the Angry Flower,
by Stephen Notley
The Boondocks,
by Aaron McGruder
Calvin and Hobbes,
by Bill Watterson
Doonesbury,
by Garry B. Trudeau
Electric Sheep Comix
by Patrick Farley
Get Your War On
by David Rees
Goats
by Jonathan Rosenberg
L. A. Cucaracha
by Lalo Alcaraz
Leviathan,
by Peter Blegvad
Lil' Abner,
by Al Capp
Lulu Eightball,
by Emily Flake
The Mostly Unfabulous Social Life of Ethan Green,
by Eric Orner
Pogo,
by Walt Kelly
Ted Rall,
by Ted Rall
This Modern World,
by Tom Tomorrow
XQUZYPHYR & Overboard,
by August J. Pollak
Films seen this year:
(with ratings):Meet the Fockers (***)
Lookin' at da TV: "The Sopranos"
"Six Feet Under"
"Malcolm In The Middle"
Battlestar Galactica
"Star Trek: Enterprise"
"ER"
"Smallville"
"One Tree Hill"
"Queer Eye for the Straight Guy"
"The Simpsons"
"Deadwood"
Father Ted
"Iron Chef"
The Food Network
tvpicks.net
Weblogs I read: AmericaBlog
American Leftist
BoingBoing
The BradLands
CamWorld
Cardhouse
The Carpetbagger Report
Cheesedip
Considered Harmful
Crabwalk
The Daily Kos
Anil Dash
Electrolite
Eschaton
Ethel the Blog
Follow Me Here
Franklin Avenue
Ghost in the Machine
Goluboy
Hit or Miss
The Hoopla 500
Jesus' General
Mark A. R. Kleiman
kottke.org
The Leaky Cauldron
Letting Loose With the Leptard
Little. Yellow. Different.
Making Light
Medley
memepool
Misnomer
MonkeyFist
More Like This
Mr. Barrett
Neil Gaiman's Journal
News of the Dead
No More Mr. Nice Guy!
NowThis.com
August J. Pollak
Q Daily News
Real Live Preacher
Respectful of Otters
Right Hand Thief
Roger "Not That One" Ailes
Ted Rall
Sadly, No!
This Modern World
Under the Gunn
WendellWit.com
Whiskey Bar
What's In Rebecca's Pocket?
Windowseat
Matthew's GLB blog portalMy Darlin' New Orleans: Gambit Weekly
NOLA.com
OffBeat
New Orleans ...
proud to blog it home.Must-reads: AlterNet.org (progressive politics & news)
Media Matters for America (debunking media lies)
Talking Points Memo (Josh Marshall)
TAPPED (The American Prospect Online)
TruthOut (William Rivers Pitt & Co.)
Borowitz Report (political satire)
The Complete Bushisms (quotationable!)
The Fray (your stories)
Landover Baptist (better Christians than YOU!)
Maledicta (The International Journal of Verbal Aggression)
The Morning Fix from SF Gate (news, opinions, extreme irreverence)
The New York Review of Science Fiction
The Onion (news 'n laffs)
"Rush, Newspeak and Fascism: An exegesis", by David Neiwert.
Whitehouse.org (not the actual White House, but it should be)
The Final Frontier: Astronomy Pic of the Day
ISS Alpha News
NASA Human Spaceflight
Spaceflight Now
SF: Locus Magazine Online
SF Site
SFWA
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Déanta: This page is coded by hand, with BBEdit 4.0.1 on an Apple G4 15" PowerBook running MacOS X 10.3 if I'm at home; occasionally with telnet and Pico on a FreeBSD Unix host running tcsh if I'm updating from work. (I never could get used to all those weblogging tools.)
Monday, January 31, 2005
A tribute to The New Orleans Underground Gourmet. Richard Collin, a history professor at Louisiana State University at New Orleans (now the University of New Orleans) was the first real restaurant critic in the Crescent City, writing the column "The New Orleans Underground Gourmet." When I was growing up, his word was almost gospel around our house, and my dad was particularly fond of his columns and his book that came out in 1973. He was erudite, witty and had the proper amount of pomp and condescension for a food critic, but generally only applied where it was deserved.I remember poring over the book when I was a kid. I was always reading well above my grade level as a kid, and Collin's reviews were challenging yet entertaining, my first glimpse of what it was like to truly appreciate fine food in New Orleans. Unfortunately I never got to try many of the great restaurants of the past -- my palate was rather unrefined and uneducated back then, and for the longest time I wouldn't even eat seafood (which appalls me today). My folks would come home talking about the restaurants they loved when they went out (the late, lamented LeRuth's for one, which was their favorite), but sadly, those places would have been wasted on me when I was young.
What I can do is read Collin's old book, which is a fascinating look at the New Orleans restaurant scene of 30 years ago. Some of those places are still around, of course, but many have been lost to history, bad times, changing tastes and the wrecking ball. I wasn't able to find our old copy of The New Orleans Underground Gourmet at my folks' house, but copies in good condition are usually available via ABEbooks.com, which is where I got mine.
One other thing I can do is to use one of Collin's terms for describing a truly great dish, a term I remember my dad using a lot as well. Collin explains it thusly in his book:
PLATONIC DISH - This is my own personal accolade. The term is derived from Plato's Republic. It simply means the best imaginable realization of a particular dish. 'Perfect' would be a good translation.For old times' sake, and as a tribute to Prof. Collin, I'm going to start using that old term again. I hope he doesn't mind.-- The New Orleans Underground Gourmet, Revised Edition. New York, NY: Simon and Schuster, 1973, p. 20.
Mmm, cabbage rolls and coffee ... can't be beat! Well, actually, I'm not talking Leutonian cuisine today, I'm talking Polish cuisine (although undoubtedly the homeland of Mrs. Vilviacki and the Shmenge brothers isn't far from Poland). Polish cuisine is hearty, simple, tasty and filling fare, and although it can be nicely fancied up (such as at the fabulous Warszawa Restaurant in Santa Monica), our favorite is the inexpensive Polish restaurant Polka, right in the neighborhood, "where Eagle Rock fades into Glendale."Family-owned and -run, it's a tiny place and you'll often wait for a table (even if you get there at 5:30, like we did). Service is friendly if a bit leisurely at times (it's a two- or three-person operation at most at any one time, and they're usually busy), but always with a smile and proper Polish accents. If you pronounce one of the names of the dishes properly, count on lavish compliments on your linguistic talents as well.
The dish I'm finishing off as leftovers as I write always makes me think of Mrs. Vilviacki, Leutonian though she may be. I love good stuffed cabbage (we do it in New Orleans too), and the Polish version may well be the best. There it's called gołąbki (or golabki if your browser can't interpret the Polish characters), pronounced something like "go-WUMP-kee" and thoroughly delicious.
The leaves are stuffed with a mixture of beef, pork and chicken, gently seasoned with a tangy red gravy, satisfying and filling and only twelve bucks for that big ol' plate of food. Actually, that photo (from Polka's web site) shows a bit more of a bounty than what you get these days; I was served a less of the vegetables and only two gołąbki, and it was STILL too much food, hence my dining on leftovers today. That all came with the soup of the day (which was a creamy tomato soup with bow-tie pasta), a salad with lettuce, tomatoes, oranges, sauerkraut and some black sesame seeds, plus dessert (which we had to skip so as not to be late for our concert later that evening). Not a bad deal at all.
Everything we've ever had at Polka has been terrific, and we couldn't recommend them more highly. They're closed on Monday and Tuesday, but any other night (or lunchtime) you're in for tons of great Polish food for a low price. That's my favorite price, next to free.
Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it. Via Kos, "in case you haven't been keeping up with developments in Vietnam" 38 years ago...
U.S. Encouraged by Vietnam Vote:We all remember how that one turned out. Those in the press, administration and "wingnut blogosphere", as Kos put it, would be advised to think and to truly assess the realities of the situation in Iraq before dancing any victory jigs.
Officials Cite 83% Turnout Despite Vietcong Terrorby Peter Grose, Special to the New York Times
September 4, 1967, page 2WASHINGTON, Sept. 3 -- United States officials were surprised and heartened today at the size of turnout in South Vietnam's presidential election despite a Vietcong terrorist campaign to disrupt the voting.
According to reports from Saigon, 83 per cent of the 5.85 million registered voters cast their ballots yesterday. Many of them risked reprisals threatened by the Vietcong.
The size of the popular vote and the inability of the Vietcong to destroy the election machinery were the two salient facts in a preliminary assessment of the nation election based on the incomplete returns reaching here.
[ Link to today's entries ]
Friday, January 28, 2005
Butter-poached lobster. My eyeballs roll up in my head in ecstasy at the very idea, the mere mention of such a thing. Chef Thomas Keller, whose Napa Valley restaurant The French Laundry is probably the best in the country, cooks lobster this way, and it's perhaps the most perfect method ever devised. I love the sweet flavor of lobster, but it's really hard to cook well. Even in nice restaurants, I've ended up with lobster that's the consistency of chewing gum. Keller's signature technique of slowly, gently poaching lobster in butter is decadent genius and lets both the flavor and texture of the lobster shine.The technique is included in Keller's gorgeous coffee-table volume
The French Laundry Cookbook, but the folks over at The Gothamist have broken it down for you, step-by-step, with photographs. It's doable, so try it sometime (I will soon).
Sad news has come to town. As an Irish traditional flute player (of extremely minimal ability), I note with sadness the passing of one of the greats, which I read about in today's edition of Ireland's Hot Press magazine, in Sarah McQuaid's "Folk Centre" column:
Sad news has come in that the great Clare flute player PJ Crotty passed away at Ennis Hospital on January 7. PJ was diagnosed with cancer of the blood platelets about six years ago, but it was during this time that he recorded his wonderful Happy To Meet. Following his removal the following day in Lahinch, all in attendance went back to The Atlantic House Hotel and a session started that lasted all night. At the funeral mass on the Sunday, the church was filled with musicians. The Cor Cúil Aodha sang the mass in Irish under the direction of Peadar Ó Ríada, and solos were played during the service by Liam O'Flynn, Seán Keane, Matt Molloy and Kevin Crawford. Before the casket left the church, PJ's wife Angela played a tune on the whistle, and when she finished all the flute players present came forward and played sets of tunes in unison. I'm told it was a beautiful sight and sound. You can hear a lovely tribute to PJ on www.rte.ie/radio1/ceilihouse. Also featured is piper Joe Shannon, who passed away on St. Stephen's Day.Jaysis, they sure know how to send off their musicians on that tiny, wonderful island, don't they? If my own musical skills were in the tiniest way noteworthy, I'd love to go out like that (followed by a jazz funeral, of course).Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam.
Editorial cartoon of the day. by Nick Anderson.
(Via Kos.)
[ Link to today's entries ]
Wednesday, January 26, 2005
Photo of the day. This sign was outside Johnson's Grocery in Eunice, Louisiana ... one of my very favorite places to get boudin.
I'd like some right this very moment, in fact, but it's damned hard to come by in southern California. Sigh. ![]()
Speaking of boudin ... I should perhaps explain what boudin is. It's both a delicacy, and the fast food of Cajun and Creole country. It's a product born of poverty, in which rice was added to the sausage to stretch it out (which we now realize, of course, is an integral part of its innate fabulosity). Or, as they say on The Boudin Link, "As everyone in South Louisiana knows, boudin is a delicious blend of rice, pork, and spices injected into a natural casing and served everywhere from the fanciest restaurants to gas stations. While most locals feel that they know where the 'best' boudin is made, no one has yet attempted a comprehensive taste guide to all the boudin in South Louisiana. The Boudin Link is THE GUIDE to boudin."Some of the Fat Pack and I have been wanting to do something like this for a while, but Coach "T" and Dr. C, Lafayette residents both, beat us to it. Makes sense, really -- they're there year-round, and we just visit a few times a year. They've got plenty of places listed with more being added all the time -- I'll consult the boudin connoisseurs in the Pack to see what their favorite places are, and I'll annotate here. (Thanks for the link, Brian!)
They give a "B" to Sunset Specialty Meats in Sunset, Louisiana, where I sampled a link of boudin just over a week ago. It was quite good, although I agree about the rubberiness of the casing (which I rarely eat anyway). It seems that I missed my real opportunity when I was there, though; they noted that Sunset Specialty Meats "had THE BEST CRACKLINS we've ever tasted. They were meaty (more meat than fat/skin), perfectly seasoned, and warm." Oh my. Next time. Ehh, it's not too far from my sister's house ...
Coach and Doctor, y'all gotta make it up to Eunice!
Zydeco Breakfast at Café des Amis. Oh, speaking of boudin (what, again?) ...One thing my sister Melissa plopped onto the head of the agenda when I was visiting her and her hubby in Lafayette Parish last week was to have breakfast at one of our favorite Acadiana eateries, Café des Amis. They're back and going strong after a devastating fire closed them down for months, and given the look of the crowd early on a Saturday morning, they're more popular than ever.
When we called the day before, they told us "Better get here early; it fills up fast. We start seating at 7:30, and the band goes on at 7:45." Seven-thirty? A.M.?! Surely one can't even digest food that early! We decided for a more civilized 9:45. When we got there the place was indeed jam-packed, and the first thing we saw was a line of older Creole men leaning on the bar, eyeing women while nursing rocks glasses full of whiskey on the rocks. For breakfast.
"I love this place," I said.
Folks were eating at their tables, drinking and/or resting by the bar, and dancing to the high-powered zydeco of Terry and the Zydeco Bad Boys, who had apparently been playing for two hours without a break, and would continue until 11 without a break (zydeco bands tend to be rather hard-working).
As much as I wanted to join the old Creole guys, I felt more like a Bloody Mary than a whiskey, and the Bloody Marys I saw people quaffing looked pretty damn good. I ordered two, and just as I was turning to hand one to my sister, she said, "Hang on to that for a minute ... I'm gonna go dance with that old man." A gentleman who looked to be about as old as our dad had asked her to dance, and she wasn't about to say no. She seemed to enjoy it, and ... um, he seemed to enjoy it a little bit too much. Back to the Bloody Marys (which were excellent and spicy), and in a surprisingly short period of time we were at a table. "Do y'all mind sharing with someone?" asked the hostess. "Not all!" said we. I actually enjoy doing that, as you usually meet some nice people. ![]()
One look at the breakfast menu made my eyes widen. They started off with some traditdional Cajun favorites such as couche couche, a skillet-fried cornmeal mush with milk and syrup, oreilles de cochon, which is sweet dough rolled thin, fried crisp and shaped like a pig's ear (hence the name). I took a closer look, though ... "Regular, $4.95. Stuffed with boudin, $6.50."
Oreilles de cochon, stuffed with boudin?!? Um ... we have to get this. Diet be damned.
Rationalization kicked in almost immediately. "Well, I suppose we don't have to eat it all," I said.
"Unless it's really fuckin' good," replied my sister.
It was really fuckin' good. ![]()
It was more like oreille-shaped beignets, really; they had beignets on the menu too, and I'm pretty sure they used the same dough. They weren't thin and crisp, but thick and chewy, but still amazingly good. I love juxtapositions of flavors like this -- doughy and sweet and meaty and spicy and oniony but covered with powdered sugar. "This is weird," Melissa said. "It's just wrong," she added, as she mostly finished her serving.
"So wrong it's right," I agreed. I didn't actually finish all the dough, but dissected everything on the plate and ate every speck that was boudin-stuffed.
They have a lot of good specialty egg dishes too, and we opted for those. Melis got Eggs Begnaud, which is a grilled biscuit topped with either crawfish étouffée or crawfish au gratin, and then topped with two eggs, any style. She opted for au gratin and poached, which looked lovely. Mine was called the "Don't Mess with My Ta--so..." Omelet, which is an omelet stuffed with smothered onions and tasso (a highly seasoned, smoked Cajun ham), with either Swiss or Cheddar cheese and toast or a biscuit. When the waitress asked which cheese I wanted, I said I wanted to try to save a few points, so "only a little tiny bit of cheese on top, please." Then she asked a key question. "What kinda grits you want on the side? Plain, cheese or andouille-cheese?" Without missing a beat ...
"Um, andouille-cheese," I said sheepishly. Melissa just laughed at me. So much for shaving points.
The "biscuit", as I noticed when it arrived, looked more like a muffin, and might have had a stick of butter in each one. The grits were fabulous, stone-ground, smoky spicy cheesy and worth every bite (I still only ate half ... good boy). ![]()
It was only just beginning to wind down by the time we finished, and really the only difference is that the band stopped at 11, tables eventualy returned to the dance floor and otherwise it was a seamless switchover to the lunch menu. Café des Amis is one of the best places to eat in the Lafayette area; Lafayette, oddly enough, is suffering for good places to eat these days. It's become dominated by awful chain restaurants like so much of blandified, homogenized America, and almost all of the good restaurants are outside Lafayette proper. Café des Amis, in Breaux Bridge, is one of them. Another is Catahoula's in Grand Coteau, where after necessarily skipping lunch we had dinner that night. More on that mo' later.
Food, glorious food. Kick-ass edition of the Los Angeles Times' Food Section today, including the great news that chef Nancy Silverton, who sold her interest in the fabulous Campanile, is now embarking on a project to open an Italian restaurant in Los Angeles with Mario Batali. Whoooo!!
* The local dim sum scene was already terrific, but nowadays has been soaring to glorious new heights.There's more. Eat it up.* Some ideas for Champagne cocktails, both new and old.
* How to eat like French people and not get fat. (I'm all over this one.)
Quote of the day. One of the thirteen who had the courage to vote "no" on Condoleeza Rice for Secretary of State:
I don't like to impugn anyone's integrity, but I really don't like being lied to, repeatedly, flagrantly, intentionally. It's wrong. It's undemocratic, it's un-American and it's dangerous.I'm disappointed in one of my senators (Feinstein, unsurprisingly) and quite disappointed in Barack Obama, both of whom voted "yes." It was more or less a done deal, though, and I can let this one slip ... although a "yes" vote for Gonzales I will not let slip. I resolved that if Feinstein voted for him, she will not get my vote for re-election in 2006. Fortunately, she voted "no" in committee, as did every Democrat, so I think her vote on the Senate floor is pretty safe.-- Sen. Mark Dayton, D-Minnesota
Regarding his prewar briefings by Rice, which turned out to be completely wrong.
No on Gonzales. This weblog joins DailyKos and many others in opposing the confirmation of Alberto Gonzales as Attorney General, and urges the Senate to vote "no." To wit:
Unprecedented times call for unprecedented actions. In this case, we, the undersigned bloggers, have decided to speak as one and collectively author a document of opposition. We oppose the nomination of Alberto Gonzales to the position of Attorney General of the United States, and we urge every United States Senator to vote against him.The confirmation of Gonzales as the chief law enforcement officer of the United States of America will signal nothing but contempt for the law and for the idea of America as a nation and a people that condemn the use of torture. How long, one wonders, will it be before we start torturing our own citizens under a broad definition of "homeland security"?As the prime legal architect for the policy of torture adopted by the Bush Administration, Gonzales's advice led directly to the abandonment of longstanding federal laws, the Geneva Conventions, and the United States Constitution itself. Our country, in following Gonzales's legal opinions, has forsaken its commitment to human rights and the rule of law and shamed itself before the world with our conduct at Guantanamo Bay and Abu Ghraib. The United States, a nation founded on respect for law and human rights, should not have as its Attorney General the architect of the law's undoing.
In January 2002, Gonzales advised the President that the United States Constitution does not apply to his actions as Commander in Chief, and thus the President could declare the Geneva Conventions inoperative. Gonzales's endorsement of the August 2002 Bybee/Yoo Memorandum approved a definition of torture so vague and evasive as to declare it nonexistent. Most shockingly, he has embraced the unacceptable view that the President has the power to ignore the Constitution, laws duly enacted by Congress and International treaties duly ratified by the United States. He has called the Geneva Conventions "quaint."
Legal opinions at the highest level have grave consequences. What were the consequences of Gonzales's actions? The policies for which Gonzales provided a cover of legality - views which he expressly reasserted in his Senate confirmation hearings - inexorably led to abuses that have undermined military discipline and the moral authority our nation once carried. His actions led directly to documented violations at Abu Ghraib and Guantanamo and widespread abusive conduct in locales around the world.
Michael Posner of Human Rights First observed: "After the horrific images from Abu Ghraib became public last year, Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld insisted that the world should 'judge us by our actions [and] watch how a democracy deals with the wrongdoing and with scandal and the pain of acknowledging and correcting our own mistakes.'" We agree. It is because of this that we believe the only proper course of action is for the Senate to reject Alberto Gonzales's nomination for Attorney General. As Posner notes, "[t]he world is indeed watching." Will the Senate condone torture? Will the Senate condone the rejection of the rule of law?
With this nomination, we have arrived at a crossroads as a nation. Now is the time for all citizens of conscience to stand up and take responsibility for what the world saw, and, truly, much that we have not seen, at Abu Ghraib and elsewhere. We oppose the confirmation of Alberto Gonzales as Attorney General of the United States, and we urge the Senate to reject him.
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Tuesday, January 25, 2005
Oscars shmoscars. When we go to our friends' annual Oscar party this year, I'm going to concentrate on the party, the food and the drink. I'm beginning to think I couldn't be less interested in the Oscars this year, considering that the best film of the year (at least that I'd seen) wasn't nominated.I must confess it's been a bad year for me; we've gotten way, way behind. We've only seen one of the five nominated features, so we've got a bit of catching up to do. I've really been looking forward to most of them, especially "The Aviator", but I'm seriously doubtful that I'll like any of them more than "Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind".
One thing I was thrilled to see was a best actress nomination for Catalina Sandino Moreno, who was the lead in the terrific (and powerful) little indie "Maria Full of Grace". In fact, I hope she gets it. Yeah, I know, I haven't seen three of the other performances, but Hilary already has one anyway, and I love to see underdogs win. (Then again, Kate Winslet was great in "Eternal Sunshine", and I'd love to see that one get something.)
Best Picture, more feckin' biopics. Biopic, biopic, biopic, biopic, "Sideways". Admittedly, I'm excited about "The Aviator" (because I'm excited about Scorsese in general, and I'm prepared to forgive him for "Gangs of New York"), and I'm already beginning to think that he needs to get the Oscar this year not necessarily for "The Aviator", but for "Taxi Driver", which should have won in 1976 instead of fucking"Rocky"forchristssake.
Okay, maybe I will watch the show. Maybe.
Tiki Drink of the day. First off, I just found a nifty site called Critiki, which is "a worldwide guide to Tiki Bars, Polynesian Restaurants and other sites of interest to the midcentury Polynesian Pop enthusiast" and is curated by Los Angeles resident Humuhumu (a.k.a. Michelle Whiting). Extremely nifty!It of course includes L.A.'s own beloved Tiki-Ti, a global treasure for lovers of tropical drinks. It's been ages since I've been there (and now that I'm an Eagle Rocker, it's actually fairly close to the house, so I have no excuse not to revisit). I still remember my first visit (when my friend Chris kept calling it, and probably still calls it "Tiki Tie", when it's actually pronounced "Tiki Tee"), where I was served their signature drink, Ray's Mistake, by the founding owner, the late Ray Buhen himself. I also remember embarking on a feeble attempt to drink my way through their entire menu, but gave up after a dozen or so (for which my liver thanks me to this day).
Now, on to today's cocktail. This is probably the granddaddy/mother/Big Kahuna/Grand Poobah of all tropical drinks, a gift to humanity by the legendary Don the Beachcomber (whom I didn't know until recently was a native of New Orleans). If you've had something called this, you probably haven't had it done properly. Here's how to do it properly, from Don himself via Dr. Cocktail:
The ZombieCaveat imbibor: this'll knock you right on your ass, but you'll enjoy every second of it.
(Don the Beachcomber's original)1 teaspoon brown sugar.
1 ounce fresh lemon juice.
1 ounce fresh lime juice.
1 ounce pineapple juice.
1 ounce passion fruit syrup.
1 dash Angostura bitters.
1 ounce gold rum.
1 ounce white rum.
1 ounce 151 proof Demerara rum (Lemon Hart).Dissolve sugar in juice. Shake with ice and pour into a Collins (or better yet, a tiki glass) with fresh ice. Garnish with a mint sprig.
Mando-rrific bass-tacular. Last night was my first visit to Walt Disney Concert Hall (excluding dinner at Patina, which is in the complex) to actually see a concert. There were a number of shows I wanted to see but missed, so it was long-overdue.It's a stunning space, which manages to feel intimate even though it seats about 2,200 people. I'm not sure what it's like in their nosebleed seats, but I can sure tell you what it's like from fifth row center -- fantastic. My friend Matthew had amazing season tickets for their world music series, and last night we saw bassist Edgar Meyer with mandolinist extraordinaire Chris Thile of Nickel Creek. Their performance was nothing less than extraordinary. Meyer has a reputation as being perhaps the best double bassist alive, and for many years has bridged the gaps between genres -- classical to bluegrass and beyond, collaborating with the likes of Joshua Bell, Sam Bush and Béla Fleck. Thile's done similar explorations with Nickel Creek and in his own solo and outside collaborative work, so the pairing seemed to be a natural.
There were a few tunes from Thile's repertoire ("Smoothie Song" from the last Nickel Creek album, and "Jessamyn's Reel" from his last solo album Deceiver), plus some classical pieces, all by J. S. Bach, but the vast majority of the performance was new, original material unique to Meyer and Thile. Astoundingly, these intricate, complex compositions were written in the last couple of weeks before the tour began, by these two musicians who had never composed or played together before. The pieces were soaring, driving, quiet, contemplative, whimsical, sometimes outright funny, the latter quality helped by their onstage chemistry. Meyer seemed as if he were playing the role of the dad sometimes, with the energeteic, irrepressible and literally bouncing Thile. Quoting his friend Sam Bush, Meyer said, "They're so cute when they're that age." (Edgar, you're more right than you know.)
The whimsy continued into the titles of the pieces (of those which had titles, at least, other than "F sharp, Fast, Slow, 5") -- "I Wasn't Talking To You", "The Farmer and the Duck", and one for which Chris was only willing to admit half of the title: "You Deserve ..." (Matthew thought it would end up as the McDonald's slogan, but I must confess I was thinking in a different direction.)
All in all a great show, and a great way to experience Disney Hall for the first time. Now I want to see the L.A. Phil there, and I really want to hear a concert on that magnificent pipe organ.
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Monday, January 24, 2005
So long, Johnny. When I was in junior high (staying up with the TV on later than I was allowed) and high school, he was a must-watch. We laughed at the monologue jokes the next day, we imitated Carnac and Aunt Blabby, Art Fern and Floyd R. Turbo, we learned the theme music in band practice, and almost never missed an episode. No offense to his successor, but after Johnny Carson retired from the "Tonight Show", I really never had much interest in watching it anymore, and pretty much quit watching late night chat shows altogether. Sure, Letterman was great, and Leno ... well, he's a nice guy, but nobody did it like Johnny. It just wasn't the same, and never could be.
I never was much of a Beach Boys fan, but thanks to Steve for sending this along:
He sits behind his microphoneThanks for all the laughs.
John-ny Car-son
He speaks in such a manly tone
John-ny Car-sonEd McMahon comes on and says "Here's Johhny"
Every night at eleven thirty he's so funny
It's (nice) to (have) you (on) the (show) tonight
I've seen (your) act (in) Vegas out of sightWhen guests are boring he fills up the slack
John-ny Car-son
The network makes him break his back
John-ny Car-sonEd McMahon comes on and says "Here's Johhny"
Every night at eleven thirty he's so funny
Don't (you) think (he's) such (a) natural guy
The (way) he's (kept) it (up) could make you cryWho's a man that we admire?
Johnny Carson is a real live wire.
Who's a man that we admire?
Johnny Carson is a real live wire.
Who's a man that we admire?
Johnny Carson is a real live wire.
Who's the man that we admire?
Johnny Carson is a real live wire.
Cocktail of the day. This one's from a recent addition to my collection of cocktail books: The Saloon in the Home, or A Garden of Rumblossoms, compiled by Ridgely Hunt and George S. Chappell, with many lavish engravings by John Held, Jr. It was published in 1930, three years before the end of Prohibition (my copy is autographed by the authors and inscribed December 1930), and is a collection of temperance songs, poems, stories, sermons and rants ... interspersed with lots and lots of cocktail recipes. It's hilarious, and I love it.This cocktail falls right into the same category as the Manhattan, Rob Roy and Rory O'More/Tom Moore cocktails -- just substitute the base spirit and stick to the classic formula.
The Hunting HornWe rather liked it.2 ounces applejack.
1 ounce sweet vermouth.
1 dash Angostura bitters.Stir with cracked ice and strain into a cocktail glass.
Garnish with a cherry.You could try spiffing this up somewhat by using Calvados instead of applejack, and you could spiff it up even more by using Carpano Antica Formula or Punt e Mes instead of garden variety Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth.
On the same page of the book were two little temperance anecdotes and another cocktail recipe (which we have yet to try); I'll share those with you too.
OH YEAH?Here's to Mr. Bryan and Dr. Monroe ... drink up!"Ten years from now hundreds of thousands of men who voted against us and struggled to keep the saloon, will go down on their knees and thank God they were overwhelmed at the ballot-box and this temptation far removed from them."
-- William Jennings Bryan, Columbus, Ohio, November 19, 1918.
AN UNFORTUNATE INCIDENT
"Very early yesterday morning, I saw a young gentleman of my acquaintance whom I knew to be too fond of ardent spirits, sitting upon a doorstep, quite exhausted from a daring feat he had been performing. On his knee were two strong door knockers, three bell pulls, and part of an area railing, all of which he had drunkenly taken into custody."
-- Dr. Henry Monroe, 1865.
The Whitney
One part Scotch whiskey.
One part Sherry.
The juice of half a Lemon.
One tablespoon of Grenadine.
Quotes of the day. From the Washington Post's interview with George W. Bush on Friday, January 14, 2005, less than a week before his re-inauguration. This is exactly the kind of brilliant mind and steel-trap thinking I want to hear from someone who's been elected not once but twice to head the most powerful country on Earth.
THE POST: Why do you think bin Laden has not been caught?Well ... olly olly oxen free! (Jesus H. particular Christ.)THE PRESIDENT: Because he's hiding.
From the day of our Founding, we have proclaimed that every man and woman on this earth has rights, and dignity, and matchless value, because they bear the image of the Maker of Heaven and Earth.Except of course, as August points out, the people we owned and the women that weren't allowed to vote.-- George W. Bush, Inaugural Address, January 20, 2005
What democracy means to me. Here's a memorable monologue delivered by Johnny Carson in 1991, as a tribute to the former Soviet republics who were then becoming new nations, seeking freedom and democracy.
To me, democracy means placing trust in the little guy, giving the fruits of nationhood to those who built the nation. Democracy means anyone can grow up to be president, and anyone who doesn't grow up can be vice president.How little has changed ... although that first paragraph could bear some rewriting for current times. Democracy now apparently means that any mediocre citizen whose family has enough money and power and who has enough personal mendacity can be president, and whichever of his buddies he appoints to find a vice-president can pick himself. God bless Murr'ca.Democracy is people of all races, colors, and creeds united by a single dream: to get rich and move to the suburbs away from people of all races, colors, and creeds. Democracy is having time set aside to worship -- 18 years if you're Jim Bakker.
Democracy is buying a big house you can't afford with money you don't have to impress people you wish were dead. And, unlike communism, democracy does not mean having just one ineffective political party; it means having two ineffective political parties.
Democracy means freedom of sexual choice between any two consenting adults; Utopia means freedom of choice between three or more consenting adults. But I digress. Democracy is welcoming people from other lands, and giving them something to hold onto -- usually a mop or a leaf blower. It means that with proper timing and scrupulous bookkeeping, anyone can die owing the government a huge amount of money.
Democracy means a thriving heartland with rolling fields of Alfalfa, Buckwheat, Spanky, and Wheezer. Democracy means our elected officials bow to the will of the people, but more often they bow to the big butts of campaign contributors.
Yes, democracy means fighting every day for what you deserve, and fighting even harder to keep other weaker people from getting what they deserve. Democracy means never having the Secret Police show up at your door. Of course, it also means never having the cable guy show up at your door. It's a tradeoff. Democracy means free television -- not good television, but free.
Democracy is being able to pick up the phone and, within a minute, be talking to anyone in the country, and, within two minutes, be interrupted by call waiting.
Democracy means no taxation without representation, and god knows, we've just about had the hell represented out of us. It means the freedom to bear arms, so you can blow the "o" out of any rural stop sign you want.
And finally, democracy is the eagle on the back of a dollar bill, with 13 arrows in one claw, 13 leaves on a branch, 13 tail feathers, and 13 stars over its head--this signifies that when the white man came to this country, it was bad luck for the Indians, bad luck for the trees, bad luck for the wildlife, and lights out for the American eagle.
I thank you.
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Saturday, January 22, 2005
Cocktails of the day. Taken from an exhibit at The Museum of the American Cocktail, New Orleans. (I'll have more on the Museum in a post next week.)
What are we drinking? A selection of Cocktails, all new for 1901.
The CommodoreNow you're all set to sip Cocktails with the cream of the crop from 104 years ago. A few notes: "Gum syrup" is basically simple syrup, with a little gum arabic added as an emulsifier, and regular simple syrup will do fine today; "Curacoa" was a popular misspelling for Curaçao, an orange liqueur that once came in several colors (but not mostly just orange and blue); "French" and "Italian" vermouth are dry and sweet respectively (our recommended brands are Noilly Prat for white/dry, and Martini & Rossi, Punt e Mes or Carpano Antica, in ascending order of complexity, for the red/sweet); "Carbonic water" is carbonated water or seltzer.
(This drink, which was invented by Phil Gross, Cincinnati, O., won the POLICE GAZETTE championship medal in the bartenders' contest.)One-half lime.
One jigger whiskey.
One teaspoonful sugar.
Two dashes orange bitters.Shake well and strain into a thin goblet and serve.
Sunny Side Cocktail
(Use common bar glass.) Two-thirds full of ice.One dash gum syrup.
One dash Angotura bitters.
Three dashes Orange bitters.
Five dashes Italian vermouth.Fill with Scotch whiskey; stir well and strain; serve with pitted olive and twisted lemon.
Trilby Cocktail
(By W. J. Farrell, St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans.)Use bar glass.
Put in a small lump of ice.
A dash of Peychaud's bitters.
A dash of Curacoa.
Two-thirds French Vermouth.Serve in a fancy stand glass, and float whiskey on top with a pinch of lemon peel.
Honolulu Cooler
(By V. J. Terrio, Boston, Mass.)Use large bar glass.
One spoonful powdered sugar.
Juice of one lime.
Two dashes Raspberry syrup.
One glass St. Croix rum.Fill the glass with shaved ice and shake well; decorate with fruits and serve with straws.
Stayer and Bracer
(By Harry Pockman, Sacramento, Cal.)Fill a mixing glass full of cracked ice.
Then put in one mixing spoon of gum syrup.
One jigger of Absinthe (white preferred).
One jigger of Three Star brandy.
The white of one egg.Shake well and strain into a fizz glass; add enough from a syphon to fill the glass and serve.
Occidental Rickey
By Jack Zahn, Occidental Hotel, New York)Squeeze one lime in a punch glass containing a small piece of ice.
One-half jigger of Sloe gin.
One jigger of Plymouth gin.Stir with a spoon while filling the glass with Carbonic water. (For plain Gin Rickey use only one kind of gin.)
Hermitage Club Sour
Ordinary bar glass.
One-half full of fine ice.
Two spoonfuls of sugar.
Juice of one small lemon.
One egg.
One dash of Maraschino.
One jigger of whiskey.Shake well and serve with cinnamon on top.
(Taken from the Latest & Most Popular Mixed Drinks supplement of
"The New Police Gazette Bartenders Guide" published 1901)So put on "Alexander's Ragtime Band", "Some of These Days", "Oh You Beautiful Doll" and some early ragtime, and drink up!
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Friday, January 21, 2005
The Bistro at Maison de Ville. Food porn returns, for your Friday pleasure.The Bistro at Maison de Ville has been one of my favorite places to eat in the city for a good while now, even though I've only been there four times (alas, I need to get home more often). I'd go back in a second.
I must confess (with apologies to Ralph Brennan and Chef Haley Gabel) that we were on our way to Bacco, and my mom didn't want to go. They weren't impressed the last time they went (and I must disclose that my folks are difficult to please and self-described "unadventurous" diners), which is a bit of a shame because I had been wanting to try Bacco (especially their white truffle festival). Fortunately, when they balked at the idea of going there we just happened to be passing right in front of the Maison de Ville, and there was the Bistro ... and on went the lightbulb-over-the-head.
Very, very good move on our part.
We were greeted at the door by their legendary maitre d'hotel Patrick van Hoorebeek (who, to my astonishment, remembered that I had dined there before, even though it's been a couple of years now), who seated us up front near his station in one of the red leather banquettes along the side of the tiny, 12-table restaurant. Patrick's one of those great New Orleans maitre d's, providing excellent service, a vast knowledge of wines and wine pairings (as well as being King of the Mardi Gras reveling wine lovers, The Krewe of Cork, reigning as king of his dining room, a benevolent and beloved monarch.
First thing Patrick did after we settled in with our menus was to bring me an absolutely perfect Sazerac. His tiny desk at the front doubles at the bar, the low shelves behind it lined with bottles of spirits, vermouth and more. I watched him as he prepared it, and a more expertly made drink was not to be had. Absolutely lovely, and not overly sweet -- the curse of many Sazeracs in New Orleans these days (no more than a teaspoon of sugar or simple syrup, folks!). ![]()
Next came the appetizer (Mom and Dad opted out, but heck, I'm on vacation), which was a Semolina-Crusted Louisiana Oyster Caesar Salad with Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Yeah, it's been done before, and it's done in a number of place, but damn ... I love this. Chef Greg Picolo, never one to be too traditional and always looking for great new flavor combinations, didn't stick with the traditional Caesar dressing (seemed to be some balsamic vinegar in there, maybe even a tiny touch of Creole mustard). He makes what a local reviewer calls "grown-up comfort food", and this is exactly what that was. Lightly fried oysters, perfectly crisp -- I love that semolina crust.
I'll tell ya, it was damn difficult to pick an entrée -- they pretty much all looked good (even the steak frites, classic bistro food and almost a requirement for a bistro lunch menu, although I don't really eat all that much steak anymore). Shrimp-stuffed salmon, seared scallops, the pork tenderloin with red and white onion marmalade and orange lavender sauce ... oh my. This one above is what nailed me, though ... I'm a sucker for wabbit. Pistachio-Crusted Pannéed Rabbit "Benson" with Yam Brabants and a Brandy, Dijon and Rabbit Jus with Capers. It was vewwy, vewwy good.
I'd never had Brabant potatoes made of yam before, which is a perfect idea (and even good for all y'all mad carb disease folks, which years ago in New Orleans was called "Sugar Busters", and saw a proliferation of fried sweet potatoes all over town). If you're not familiar with them, Brabant potatoes are a French-style fried potato (as opposed to "French fries", which as we all know are actually Belgian) cut into large or medium-sized cubes instead of strips. The haricots verts were lovely and crunchy-tender, and that sauce was rich in flavor without being heavy. Man, I can't wait to try to make a stock of rabbit stock and jus with brandy and Dijon. I know it was a double WeightWatchers sized portion at least, but I ate every speck. How could I not? Patrick recommended a 2002 Château Maison Nicolas Pinot Noir from Burgundy to go along with that, and he was right, of course.
Turns out my dad got the rabbit too, and told tales (which strangely enough I had never heard before) of growing up during World War II when meat was severely rationed. Apparently my grandfather used to raise rabbits in the backyard, and my grandmother would make rabbit two or three times a week -- stewed, fried, fricasséed, in a sauce piquante, and in more ways than Elmer Fudd had ever concieved in his wildest wabbit dweams. That's not the only amazing family history I picked up when I was at home this year, but more on that later.
My mom's dish was fantastic too, and I was kinda wishing I had gotten that instead for a bit -- it would have been better for me than the pannéed rabbit. (Actually, I just wish I had enough bellyroom for both of them.) Many New Orleans restaurants offer a "Gulf fish of the day" preparation, and most of them are pretty good although they tend to be unspectacular. This was anything but unspectacular -- Grouper Courtbouillon with with Roasted Pepper, Crawfish and Pecan Risotto served with Sautéed Spinach. This stuff isn't the mere poaching liquid of traditional French cuisine -- a Creole- or Cajun-style courtbouillon is a thick fish stew with a red gravy, full of onions and peppers and garlic and black and red pepper, and is absolutely delicious. The kicker on this dish was that fantastic risotto with crawfish and pecans. It's dishes like this that elevate Chef Greg Picolo to the top of the heap in New Orleans, as far as I'm concerned. Every dish he's ever put in front of me has made me very, very happy. ![]()
Desseret was a Chocolate Crème Brûlée; the Bistro is renowned for their superb crèmes brûlées, and this dish was a perfect example of why that's so. Fortunately, mom and dad agreed to help out a little, 'cause I was very very full by the end of this spectacular meal. The problem is going to be trying to fit in another visit to the Bistro, which I very much want, when I come back home for Jazzfest in a few months. We've got a long list of places we want to go to -- Bayona, Marisol, Lilette to name but a few. Aah. I'll make it work.
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Thursday, January 20, 2005
Just a closer walk with Thee ... Today is Inauguration Day. While George W. Bush spends $40 million dollars in an enormous self-congratulatory fête while we have American troops in grave danger abroad at war (something Franklin Delano Roosevelt declined to do in 1945), progressives in my hometown of New Orleans are holding a jazz funeral for democracy. They want to remind the nation that "though not a majority, 49 percent of the voters represents a large minority of Americans who oppose the various components of Bushism."
"While the rest of the country will be focused on the beginning of Bush's second term, our objective is to show the world that we are not in support of a continued war in Iraq, record inflation, flagrant disregard for the constitutional rights of all citizens and four more years of rule by a small group of wealthy elite," the coalition says on its Web site.Lolis Eric Elie provides more about the group in his Times-Picayune article, and comments:
There's a certain hyperbole in the group's decision to call the event a funeral for democracy. If democracy were truly dead, such marches might be banned.The Jazz Funeral for Democracy begins in New Orleans at Congo Square at 11am local time. As Bush takes office again, a horse-drawn hearse will carry a coffin containing copies of the Patriot Act and the Constitution from Congo Square to Jackson Square to the Faubourg Marigny, accompanied by the Tremé Brass Band.But Bush's critics note the contradictions embedded in the president's own use of language. Whether it was his declaring, "Mission accomplished," as the situation in Iraq began to unravel, or his insistence that there could be legitimate elections in Iraq while much of the electorate is too scared to vote, there is a wealth of irony in the president's statements. In so Orwellian a linguistic environment, maybe a funeral for democracy isn't inappropriate.
I'm back in L.A. as of last night, and I'm really sorry to miss this one.
What Bush's inauguration could have bought. (Via Kos: The American Progrss listed the following numbers to show Bush's disregard of people by spending $40 million for an oath. A look at this week's festivities by the numbers:
$40 million: Cost of Bush inaugural ball festivities, not counting security costs.You can include me in that last number.$2,000: Amount FDR spent on the inaugural in 1945... about $20,000 in today's dollars.
$20,000: Cost of yellow roses purchased for inaugural festivities by D.C.'s Ritz Carlton.
200: Number of Humvees outfitted with top-of-the-line armor for troops in Iraq that could have been purchased with the amount of money blown on the inauguration.
$10,000: Price of an inaugural package at the Fairmont Hotel, which includes a Beluga caviar and Dom Perignon reception, a chauffeured Rolls Royce and two actors posing as "faux" Secret Service agents, complete with black sunglasses and cufflink walkie-talkies.
400: Pounds of lobster provided for "inaugural feeding frenzy" at the exclusive Mandarin Oriental hotel.
3,000: Number of "Laura Bush Cowboy cookies" provided for "inaugural feeding frenzy" at the Mandarin hotel.
$1: Amount per guest President Carter spent on snacks for guests at his inaugural parties. To stick to a tight budget, he served pretzels, peanuts, crackers and cheese and had cash bars.
22 million: Number of children in regions devastated by the tsunami who could have received vaccinations and preventive health care with the amount of money spent on the inauguration.
1,160,000: Number of girls who could be sent to school for a year in Afghanistan with the amount of money lavished on the inauguration.
$15,000: The down payment to rent a fur coat paid by one gala attendee who didn't want the hassle of schlepping her own through the airport.
$200,500: Price of a room package at D.C.'s Mandarin Oriental, including presidential suite, chauffeured Mercedes limo and outfits from Neiman Marcus.
2,500: Number of U.S. troops used to stand guard as President Bush takes his oath of office.
26,000: Number of Kevlar vests for U.S. soldiers in Iraq and Afghanistan that could be purchased for $40 million.
$290: Bonus that could go to each American solider serving in Iraq, if inauguration funds were used for that purpose.
$6.3 million: Amount contributed by the finance and investment industry, which works out to be 25 percent of all the money collected.
$17 million: Amount of money the White House is forcing the cash-strapped city of Washington, D.C., to pony up for inauguration security.
9: Percentage of D.C. residents who voted for Bush in 2004.
66: Percentage of Americans who think this over-the-top inauguration should have been scaled back.
Food porn shall resume shortly. 'Twas very busy Monday through Wednesday of this week, what with a flurry of visiting family and friends, and there were oh so many meals to eat. I got a little bit behind, but have no fear, faithful readers -- I shall continue to mercilessly torture you with food writing and photographs from the past week's repasts in New Orleans. In fact, I managed to photograph every single meal for you (since I do believe a food weblogger needs to have pictures) except for the hot sausage and cheese poor boy I had at Johnny's Po-Boys in the Quarter.Just so y'all'll hate me a little bit more, I am pleased to report that during the past week I only gained 2.5 pounds. I can get rid of those standin' on my head. (Um, and doing a little walking, too.)
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Friday, January 14, 2005
Mother's is a mutha. Slept waaaay too late today, then headed ova to the West Bank to visit my sister for a while, then back to New Orleans for a late lunch. It had actually been a few years since I'd been to Mother's on Poydras and Tchoupitoulas, home of many gustatory delights, not the least of which is roast beef debris (the little bits that fall off the roast beef and swim in the drippings while it's cooking) and the legendary poor boy called the Ferdi Special (baked ham, which at Mother's is just about the best in the city, sliced roast beef, debris and gravy, dressed with shredded cabbage, mayonnaise, pickles and both Creole and yellow mustards). It had been years since I'd had a Ferdi, and I figured it was about time. The menu listed both a whole or half for each poor boy selection, so I thought, "Ooh, a half a poor boy ... that's a Weight Watchers serving!" Hehehehehehhh ... yeah, right.
I should have known better. Half was as big as whole one in some other places. I shouldn't eat all this, I thought. One bite later ...
Lordy, it was soooo good and I thought, well hell, I should make a valiant attempt to finish this, 'cause it's really not all that big (you feckin' lying bastard) and it's really too amazingly good not to finish. Oh, and there was a cup of turtle soup too ...
Delicious, full of big chunks of turtle meat and a generous drizzle of sherry. Not quite what they serve at Commander's (who make the best turtle soup anywhere ever), but still damn good.
I did make a valiant effort, I swear I did ...
But then I hit the brick wall ... ah well. I managed to knock out most of it, and I did want to be able to continue breathing (as opposed to so full that I can't even expand my diaphragm to take a breath). Absolutely outstanding, as ever -- the bread was soaked through on the bottom from all the gravy, making this poor boy a bit of an unwieldy eat, but fantastic tasting. The ham was excellent, the roast beef tender, and the debris was A Platonic Dish. One immediately understands why people line up around the block for this stuff during the busy season and the lunch rush. ![]()
After lunch I met up with my friend Louise, and we spend the rest of the afternoon and evening on a cocktail cruise. First stop was Arnaud's French 75 Bar, where bartender Chris held sway and almost immediately asked us if we knew about the Museum, and yes in fact some friends of ours were involved in its creation, although we missed the opening. He was very enthusiastic about it, had a great time the night before with Doc and Robert Hess and other cocktailians, and they had spent the whole evening making drinks out of Doc's book and quaffing them merrily ... (damn, my timing was really bad). Chris made me a French 75 (although to my disappointment he served the brandy version, not bad, just not what it should be, which he immediately admitted: "We usually make them with brandy down here, but Dr. Cocktail gently corrected me as to its being properly made with gin."), an outstanding Sazerac, and one momentous concoction -- the first Corpse Reviver No. 2 I'd ever had in an actual bar (as opposed to our house or Doc's house). That was a true pleasure.
The bartender kindly offered to take our picture, which turned out about as fuzzy as we were:
Next stop was over to Fahy's Irish Pub, a friendly neighborhoody joint on Burgundy primarily inhabited by regular locals, where they're kind enough