looka, <lʊ´-kə> dialect, v.
1. The imperative form of the verb "to look"; in the spoken vernacular of New Orleans, it is usually employed when the speaker wishes to call one's attention to something.
2. --n. Chuck Taggart's weblog, hand-made and updated (almost) daily, focusing on food and drink, cocktails as cuisine, music (especially of the roots variety), New Orleans and Louisiana culture, news of the reality-based community ... and occasionally movies, books, sf, public radio, media and culture, travel, Macs, liberal and progressive politics, humor and amusements, reviews, complaints, the author's life and opinions, witty and/or smart-arsed comments and whatever else tickles the author's fancy.
Please feel free to contribute a link if you think I'll find it interesting. If you don't want to read my opinions, feel free to go elsewhere.Page last tweaked @ 1:01pm PDT, 8/28/2008
Looka! RSS feed
Comments RSS feed
If you like, you are welcome to send e-mail to the author. Your comments on each post are also welcome; however, right-wing trolls are about as welcome as a boil on my arse. Search this site:
Barack Obama for President
"Doctors, Professors, Kings and Queens: The Big Ol' Box of New Orleans" is a 4-CD box set celebrating the joy and diversity of the New Orleans music scene, from R&B to jazz to funk to Latin to blues to zydeco to klezmer (!) and more, including a full-size, 80-page book. Buy my New Orleans music box set!
Produced, compiled and annotated by Chuck Taggart (hey, that's me!), liner notes by Mary Herczog (author of Frommer's New Orleans) and myself. Now for sale at your favorite independent record stores (such as the Louisiana Music Factory, because you should be supporting local New Orleans retailers) or via Amazon if you insist.
The box set was the subject of a 15-minute profile on National Public Radio's "Weekend Edition" on Feb. 6, 2005, and a segment on Wisconsin Public Radio's "To The Best of Our Knowledge" on Apr. 3, 2005. Here are some nice blurbs from the reviews (a tad immodest, I know; I'm not generally one to toot my own horn, but let's face it, I wanna sell some records here.)
* * * "More successfully than any previous compilation, Doctors... captures the sprawling eclecticism, freewheeling fun and constant interplay of tradition and innovation that is at the heart of Crescent City music." -- Keith Spera, New Orleans Times-Picayune.
"... if you DO know someone who's unfortunate enough to have never heard these cuts, press this monumentally adventurous box and its attendant booklet upon them. It's never too late to learn" -- Robert Fontenot, OffBeat magazine, New Orleans
"... the best collection yet of Louisiana music." -- Scott Jordan, The Independent, Lafayette, Louisiana.
"[T]he year's single most awesome package" -- Buddy Blue, San Diego Union-Tribune
"This four-CD box set doesn't miss a Crescent City beat ... For anyone who has enjoyed the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, this is Jazz Fest in a box. ***1/2" -- Dave Hoekstra, Chicago Sun-Times
"... excellently compiled, wonderfully annotated ... New Orleans fans will know much of this by heart, though they may not remember it sounding so good; those who don't know what it's like to miss New Orleans will quickly understand." -- Terry Lawson, Detroit Free Press.
"... a perfect storm when it comes to reissues. This box set is musically exciting, a complete representation of its subject matter, and just plain fun to listen." -- Charlie B. Dahan, AllAboutJazz.com
"... one of the best impressions of a city's musical blueprint that you're likely to ever find." -- Zeth Lundy, PopMatters.com
"... an unacademic, uncategorized album that suits the city's time-warped party spirit." -- Jon Pareles, The New York Times
How to donate to this site: Your donations help keep this site going. PayPal's the best way -- just click the button below, and thanks!
You can also donate via the Amazon.com Honor System, if you wish (but they deduct a larger fee from your donation and I keep less).
(Also, here's a shameless link to my Amazon Wish List.)
Buy stuff! You can get Gumbo Pages designs on T-shirts, mugs and mousepads at The Gumbo Pages Swag Shop!
Looka! Archive
(99 and 44/100% link rot)August 2008
July 2008
June 2008
May 2008
April 2008
March 2008
February 2008
January 2008
2007: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2006: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2005: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2004: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2003: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2002: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2001: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
2000: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
1999: Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
My Photos on Flickr
www.flickr.com
My Darlin' New Orleans...
Shop New Orleans! Visit the stores linked here to do your virtual online shopping in New Orleans. The city needs your money!
Greater N.O. Community Data Center
New Orleans Wiki
Media:
Gambit Weekly
NOLA.com & The Times-Picayune
OffBeat
Scat Magazine
WDSU-TV (Channel 6, NBC)
WGNO-TV (Channel 26, ABC)
WNOL-TV (Channel 38, WB)
WTUL-FM (91.5, Progressive radio)
WVUE-TV (Channel 8, FOX)
WWL-TV (Channel 4, CBS)
WWNO-FM (89.9, classical, jazz, NPR)
WWOZ-FM (90.7, Best Radio Station in the Universe)
WYES-TV (Channel 12, PBS)
New Orleans ...
proud to blog it home.
2 Millionth Weblog
A Frolic of My Own
Ashley Morris (in memoriam)
Blogging New Orleans
Dispatches from Tanganyika
Home of the Groove
Humid City
Library Chronicles
Mellytawn Dreams
Metroblogging N.O.
People Get Ready
Da Po'Blog
Suspect Device Blog
The Third Battle of New Orleans
World Class New Orleans
The Yat Pundit
Your Right Hand ThiefCocktail hour. "We are still heartily of the opinion that decent libation supports as many million lives as it threatens; donates pleasure and sparkle to more lives than it shadows; inspires more brilliance in the world of art, music, letters, and common ordinary intelligent conversation, than it dims." -- Charles H. Baker, Jr.
CocktailDB
The Internet's most comprehensive
and indispensible database of
authenticated cocktail recipes,
ingredients, reseearch and more.
By Martin Doudoroff & Ted Haigh)
Museum of the American Cocktail
Founded by Dale DeGroff and many
other passionate spirits in Jan. 2005.
Celebrating a true American cultural
icon: the American Cocktail.
(Their weblog.)
The Sazerac Cocktail
* * *
(The sine qua non of cocktails,
and the quintessential New Orleans
cocktail. Learn to make it.)
The Footloose Cocktail
(An original by Wes;
"Wonderful!" - Gary Regan.
"Very elegant, supremely
sophisticated" - Daniel Reichert.)
The Hoskins Cocktail
(An original by Chuck;
"It's nothing short of a
masterpiece." - Gary Regan)
* * * Chuck & Wes' Liquor Cabinet
(Frighteningly large, and would
never fit in a cabinet)
Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Book Collection
(Constantly growing)
Chuck & Wes' Cocktail Menu
(A few things we like to
drink at home, plus a couple
we don't, just for fun.)
* * * Peychaud's Bitters
(Indispensible for Sazeracs
and many other cocktails.
Order them here.)
Angostura Bitters
(The gold standard of bitters,
fortunately available everywhere
worldwide. Insist on it.)
Regans' Orange Bitters No. 6
(Complex and spicy orange
bitters for your Martinis,
Old Fashioneds and many more.
Order them here.)
Fee Brothers' Bitters
(Classic orange bitters,
peach bitters and a cinnamony
"Old Fashion" aromatic bitters,
plus new lemon & grapefruit bitters!)
The Bitter Truth
(A new brand of bitters
from Germany: orange, lemon,
aromatic bitters and more!)
Bittermens Bitters
(Fantastic new small-batch
bitters company with forth-
coming products including
Xocolatl Mole Bitters,
grapefruit, "tiki" spice,
and sweet chocolate bitters, wow!)
* * * Alcademics
(The study of booze with Camper English)
Ardent Spirits
(Gary & Mardee Regan)
The Art of Drink:
An exploration of Spirits & Mixology.
(Darcy O'Neil)
Bar Mix Master
(Brad Ellis, New Orleans)
Beachbum Berry:
(Jeff Berry, world-class expert
on tropical drinks)
Bunnyhugs
(Seamus Harris, N.Z. & China)
The Cocktail Chronicles
(Paul Clarke's weblog)
Cocktailians.com
(Group drinks blog by Vidiot,
Mr. Bali Hai, Kosmonaut,
Chico and me).
The Cocktail Circuit
(Joseph Mailander)
Cocktail Nerd
(Gabriel Szaszko)
A Dash of Bitters
(Michael Dietsch)
Drink A Week
(Alex and Ed)
DrinkBoston.com
(Lauren Clark)
DrinkBoy and the
Community for the
Cultured Cocktail
(Robert Hess, et al.)
DrinkBoy's Cocktail Weblog
Drink Trader
(Online magazine for the
drink trade)
Esquire's Drinks Database
(Dave Wondrich and
his forbears)
Happy Hours
(Beverage industry
news & insider info)
Imbibe Magazine
(Celebrating the world in a glass)
Jeff Morgenthaler
(Bartender/mixologist, Eugene OR)
Jimmy's Cocktail Hour
(Jimmy Patrick)
Kaiser Penguin
(Rick Stutz, bringing us cocktails
and great photographs)
King Cocktail
(Dale DeGroff)
La Fée Verte
(All about absinthe
from Kallisti et al.)
LUPEC.org
(Ladies United for the
Preservation of
Endangered Cocktails)
Fine Spirits & Cocktails
(eGullet's forum)
The Ministry of Rum
(Everything you always wanted to know)
The Modern Mixologist
(Tony Abou-Ganim)
Mr. Lucky's Cocktails
(Sando, LaDove,
Swanky et al.)
Mr. Mixer
(Hundreds of cocktail recipes ...
in Hungarian. Well, why not?
Sajnos, nem beszélek magyarul.)
Nat Decants
(Natalie MacLean)
Off the Presses
(Robert Simonson)
Oh, Gosh!
(Jay Hepburn, London)
Rowley's Whiskey Forge
(Matt Rowley)
RumDood.com
(Matt Robold, The Rum Dood)
Save the Drinkers
(Kevin Kelpe, Boise, Idaho!)
Sloshed!
(Marleigh)
Spirit Journal
(F. Paul Pacult)
Spirits and Cocktails
(Jamie Boudreau)
Spirits Review
(Chris Carlsson)
Tastings.com
(Beverage Tasting
Institute journal)
Trader Tiki's Booze Blog
(Blair Reynolds)
Vintage Cocktails
(Daniel Reichert)
The Wormwood Society
(Dedicated to promoting accurate,
current information about absinthe)
Let's eat! New Orleans:
Appetites
Culinary Concierge (N.O. food & wine magazine)
Mr. Lake's Non-Pompous New Orleans Food Forum
The New Orleans Menu
Notes from a New Orleans Foodie
Food-related weblogs:
Bacontarian
Chocolate and Zucchini
Honest Cuisine
Il Forno
KIPlog's FOODblog
MeatHenge
Mise en Place
Sauté Wednesday
Simmer Stock
Tastespotting
Tasting Menu
Waiter Rant
More food!
à la carte
Chef Talk Café
Chowhound (L.A.)
eGullet
Epicurious
Food Network
The Global Gourmet
The Hungry Passport site and weblog)
A Muse for Cooks
The Online Chef
Practically Edible
Pasta, Risotto & You
Slow Food Int'l. Movement
Southern Food & Beverages Museum
Southern Foodways Alliance
So. Calif. Farmer's Markets
Zagat Guide
&c.
In vino veritas. The Oxford Companion to Wine
Wine Enthsiast
The Wine Spectator
Wine Today
Wines.com
Zinfandel Advocates & Producers
Wine/spirits shops in our 'hood:
Colorado Wine Co., Eagle Rock
Mission Liquors, Pasadena
Silverlake Wine, Silverlake
Chronicle Wine Cellar, Pasadena
Other wine/spirits shops we visit:
Beverage Warehouse, Mar Vista
Wally's Wine & Spirits, Westwood
The Wine House, West L.A.
Reading this month:Lisey's Story, by Stephen King.
The Ghost Brigades, by John Scalzi.
In Defense of Food, by Michael Pollan.
Listen to music! Chuck's current album recommendations
Altan
BeauSoleil
Beck
Luka Bloom
La Bottine Souriante
Billy Bragg
Cordelia's Dad
Jay Farrar
The Frames
Kíla
Sonny Landreth
Los Lobos
Christy Moore
Nickel Creek
OK Go
The Old 97s
Anders Osborne
Planxty
The Proclaimers
Professor Longhair
Red Meat
The Red Stick Ramblers
The Reivers
Zachary Richard
Paul Sanchez
Marc Savoy
Son Volt
Richard Thompson
Toasted Heretic
Uncle Tupelo
Wilco
Tom Morgan's Jazz Roots
Miles of Music
New Orleans Bands.net
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival
No Depression
RootsWorld
Appalachian String Band Music Festival - Clifftop, WV
Long Beach Bayou Festival
Strawberry Music Festival - Yosemite, CA
Talking furniture: WWOZ (New Orleans)
Broadcast schedule
Live audio stream
KCSN (Los Angeles)
Broadcast schedule
Stream the last "Down Home"
for 1 week after broadcastk
Live MP3 audio stream
Bob Walker's New Orleans Radio Shrine
(A rich history of N.O. radio)
PublicRadioFan.com
(Comprehensive listings)
Air America Radio
(Talk radio for the
rest of us)
Folkscene
Joe Frank
Grateful Dead Radio
(Streaming complete
shows!)
KPIG, 107 Oink 5
(Freedom, CA)
KRVS Radio Acadie
(Lafayette, LA)
LouisianaRadio.com
Mike Hodel's "Hour 25"
(Science fiction radio)
Raidió Idirlíon
(Irish language & music)
Raidió na Gaeltachta
(Irish language)
RootsWorld's Rootsradio
RTÉ Radio Ceolnet
(Irish trad. music)
WXDU (Durham, NC)
Films seen this year:
(with ratings):In the cinema:
Sweeney Todd, The Demon Barber of Fleet Street (****-1/2)
Atonement (****)
No Country for Old Men (****)
Juno (***-1/2)
On DVD:
Dominion: Prequel to The Exorcist (***)
Eastern Promises (***-1/2)
Omagh (***-1/2)
Transformers (**-1/2)
Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End (**-1/2)
Across the Universe (***-1/2)
Sicko (****)
Michael Clayton (****)
The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford (****-1/2)
Lookin' at da TV: "Lost"
"Battlestar Galactica"
"ER"
"Smallville"
"One Tree Hill"
"Queer Eye for the Straight Guy"
"The Simpsons"
"Top Chef"
"Father Ted"
Photography: A Gallery for Fine Photography, New Orleans (Joshua Mann Pailet)
American Museum of Photography
California Museum of Photography, Riverside
International Center of Photography
Ansel Adams
Jonathan Fish
Noah Grey
Greg Guirard
Paul F. R. Hamilton
Clarence John Laughlin
Herman Leonard
Howard Roffman
J. T. Seaton
Jerry Uelsmann
Gareth Watkins
Brett Weston
The Mirror Project
(My pics therein: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.)
My photographs at Flickr
Comix: The Amazing Adventures of Bill,
by Bill Roundy
Bloom County / Outland / Opus,
by Berkeley Breathed
Bob the Angry Flower,
by Stephen Notley
The Boondocks,
by Aaron McGruder
Calvin and Hobbes,
by Bill Watterson
Doonesbury,
by Garry B. Trudeau
Electric Sheep Comix
by Patrick Farley
Get Your War On
by David Rees
Goats
by Jonathan Rosenberg
L. A. Cucaracha
by Lalo Alcaraz
Leviathan,
by Peter Blegvad
Lil' Abner,
by Al Capp
Lulu Eightball,
by Emily Flake
The Mostly Unfabulous Social Life of Ethan Green,
by Eric Orner
Pogo,
by Walt Kelly
Suspect Device,
by Greg Peters
Ted Rall,
by Ted Rall
This Modern World,
by Tom Tomorrow
XQUZYPHYR & Overboard,
by August J. Pollak
Must-reads: Polly Ticks:
AlterNet.org (Progressive politics & news)
Daily Kos (My favorite political weblog)
Eschaton (The Mighty Atrios)
Hullaballoo (The Mighty Digby)
Media Matters for America (Debunking right-wing media lies)
Orcinus (David Neiwert)
PostSecret (Secrets sent in via postcards; astonishingly beautiful, funny and sad.)
Talking Points Memo (Josh Marshall)
TAPPED (The American Prospect Online)
Think Progress
TruthOut (William Rivers Pitt & Co.)Miscellany::
Borowitz Report (Political satire)
The Complete Bushisms (quotationable!)
The Fray (Your stories)
Landover Baptist (Better Christians than YOU!)
Maledicta (The International Journal of Verbal Aggression)
The Morning Fix from SF Gate (Opinions, extreme irreverence)
The New York Review of Science Fiction
The Onion (Scarily funny news/satire)
"Rush, Newspeak and Fascism: An exegesis", by David Neiwert. (Read this.)
Whitehouse.org (Not the actual White House, but it should be)
Weblogs I read: Alicublog
AmericaBlog
American Leftist
BoingBoing
The BradLands
Cardhouse
The Carpetbagger Report
Cheesedip
Crabwalk
Franklin Avenue
Ghost in the Machine
Hit or Miss
Jesus' General
kottke.org
Making Light
Neil Gaiman's Journal
Not Right About Anything
NowThis.com
Pandagon
August J. Pollak
Sadly, No!
telescreen.org
This Modern World
Your Right Hand Thief
L.A. BlogsFriends with pages: bill
chris
dule
ellen
jon
jordan
mary
mary & rick
mary katherine
michael p.
nancy
peter
robb
sean
steve
ted
The Final Frontier: Astronomy Pic of the Day
ISS Alpha News
NASA Human Spaceflight
Spaceflight Now
SF: Locus Magazine Online
SF Site
SFWA
Quotationable: "To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that we are to stand by the president right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."
-- Theodore Roosevelt, 26th President of the United States (1901-1909), speaking in 1918"There ought to be limits to freedom."
-- George W. Bush, May 21, 1999"You don't get everything you want. A dictatorship would be a lot easier."
-- George W. Bush, describing what it's like to be governor of Texas, Governing Magazine, July 1998"If this were a dictatorship, it would be a heck of a lot easier, just so long as I'm the dictator."
-- George W. Bush, CNN.com, December 18, 2000"A dictatorship would be a heck of a lot easier, there's no question about it."
-- George W. Bush, Business Week, July 30, 2001
![]()
Déanta: This page is coded by hand, with BBEdit 4.0.1 on an Apple iMac 24" and a G4 15" PowerBook running MacOS X 10.5 if I'm at home; occasionally with telnet and Pico on a FreeBSD Unix host running tcsh if I'm updating from work. (I never could get used to all those weblogging tools.)
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
"Eating, drinking and carrying on..." -- Adelaide Brennan
Thursday, April 28, 2008 If you live in Los Angeles you have official permission to skip my radio show tonight to listen to Barack. Hell, I'm gonna miss it -- I've put together a first hour of long live pieces from Jazzfest for anyone who might be out there, but me, I'll have the TV on at the radio station.
Yes we can.
Tales of the Cocktail: Liqueurs and Cordials. The world's pokiest event recapper here, with more details of Tales ... only 40 days after the fact. Hey, that's not bad for me.
Next after the amari was a seminar with the slightly unwieldy title of "History of Liqueurs and Cordials, and Their Important Role in Cocktails Both Classic and Contemporary," with a panel consisting of Rob Cooper, whose family business is Jacquin et Cie and who founded Cooper Spirits International, makers of the fabulous St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur; Dr. Cocktail; Dave Wondrich and mixologist Chad Solomon of Cuff and Buttons. I thorougly enjoyed the session, but unfortunately am missing most of my notes from that one ... d'oh.
One of the liqueurs prominently featured was the long-lost and elusive Crème Yvette, named for the French actress Yvette Gilbert around the turn of the 20th Century, which has been out of production for decades. It's a violet-based liqueur similar to crème de violette, but with the addition of vanilla and other spices to give it more complexity. There was some vintage Crème Yvette on hand to taste, as well as a new version that, we hope, will be hitting the market again in early 2009 and will give yet another great boost to the world of cocktails.
I'm still a big fan of crème de violette -- it's a necessasry component in the original Aviation and several other cocktails -- but cannot WAIT for Yvette to make its return. We tasted a lab sample of the new stuff, and I found it to be a bit rounder and more balanced than the violette, fruitier and a bit less floral. (It'll be great to make Blue Moons with this.) It was grapey in the nose, with a definite fragrance of vanilla. On the palate it was citric, with fruit up front and the floral aspects of the violets in the finish. Lovely, lovely stuff.
The early arrivers were also regaled with handmade versions of this infamous layered cocktail, made by Dave Wondrich himself! (I wasn't an early arriver, ended up way in the back, and didn't get one. Hrmph.)
Pousse Café
1/3 Plymouth Sloe Gin.
1/3 Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur.
1/3 Crème Yvette.
Layer ingredients in a cordial glass by carefully pouring each liqueur very slowly, based on their density (heaviest first) into the glass over the back of a barspoon.Serve layered, and sip slowly.
We were also excited about the potential return of another long-lost classic liqueur, which was made by Jacquin, the company run by Rob Cooper's dad and grandfather since just after Prohibition. Forbidden Fruit is a brandy-based pommelo liqueur (a citrus fruit similar to grapefruit) sweetened with honey, and it's fabulous, fabulous stuff.
![]()
There's a bottle of vintage Forbidden Fruit, with a fuzzy Rob Cooper in the background. (I have a tiny 1/10th pint size miniature that's still mostly full.) If the bottle looks familiar -- like the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch -- well, actually like a Chambord bottle -- it's because both liqueurs were made by Jacquin at the time. The Chambord brand was sold off to Brown-Forman many years ago, so when Forbidden Fruit returns it won't be in that iconic bottle. There's no timetable yet for its return -- we sampled a lab batch as well as the vintage, and the lab batch isn't quite there yet. We did get a cocktail, though, one of 26 Forbidden Fruit cocktails listed in CocktailDB and, I hope, the start of many more:
The Tantalus Cocktail
1-1/2 ounces brandy.
3/4 ounce Forbidden Fruit.
3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice.
Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.Here's one more recipe for a cocktail with a powerful liqueur as its modifying ingredient. If you've never had green Chartreuse before, find a good liquor store that has a good selection of miniatures and try it. It'll blow you away, and you may be unprepared for the depth and complexity of its flavor. (It's powerful stuff too, at 110 proof!) It looks to me to be a variation of the Last Word cocktail, one of my favorites, adjusting the proportions in favor of the gin and swapping out simple syrup for the maraschino.
Daisy Mae Cocktail
(from the Flatiron Lounge, New York)2 ounces Junipero gin.
1 ounce fresh lime juice.
3/4 ounce green Chartreuse.
3/4 ounce simple syrup.
Shake with ice and strain over the rocks in an Old Fashioned glass. Garnishsed with a mint sprig.Most of my pictures turned out to be crap, but I did get a shot of one of the interesting bottles Rob brought along:
![]()
I love those old bottles containing four chambers with four liqueurs. Not terribly practical, but nifty anyway.
Next seminar ... Gary Regan and LeNell Smothers, and American whiskies. (Boy, that one will be on fire.)
[ Link to today's entries ]
Wednesday, August 27, 2008 Plucky Survivors 3 begins today! My good friends Mary and Rick are off on their third annual road trip across the backroads and byways of America. This year it's Savannah to Charleston to Myrtle Beach to Asheville to Knoxville to Lexington to Louisville to Chattanooga to Atlanta and everything in between, for the next 11 days.
![]()
Mary says, "Join us as we blog daily about everything from the Scopes Monkey Trial Museum to the 52 hole Biblically themed mini-golf course, from the Martin Luther King memorial and grave site to the Col. Sanders museum, from Hillbilly Hot Dogs to the South Carolina State BBQ championships. And, of course, as we play Cow!, the best road trip game there is. It's daily food and road trip porn for those who like that sort of thing."
We'll be posting daily updates from their road trip journals here. Stay tuned!
Oh, crap. Well, isn't this just dandy, with the three-year Katrinaversary being on Friday?
![]()
It's still way too early to tell, but some computer models have it landing either just east or just west of New Orleans at potential Category 4 strength. However, I'm hearing that Bob Breck, local N.O. weatherman and meteorologist with TONS of experience with hurricanes, seems to think that dotted-line path is the least likely one. In fact, he says:
Geez... reading all the doom & gloom scenarios, one would think we all gonna die from Gustav. Let's be reasonable. 1) Latest info from recon aircraft indicates Gustav has WEAKENED as he interacts with the mountains of Haiti. 2) The forecast error at 5 days is nearly 300 miles! As I have said in the past...I want New Orleans to be the bulls eye at 5 days because it won't come here... it will be on either side of the center line track by a large distance. 3) It's far too soon to cancel your weekend plans just because some "computer models" say Gustav is coming into the central Gulf. Today is only TUESDAY. We'll have a much better handle on where the storm is going by THURSDAY, 2 days from now.
Fingers crossed.
Oh, but the really good news, that should fill us all with confidence, is that RayRay "Do Nothing" Nagin has decided to come back home from the Democratic Convention to "oversee preparation" for the hurricane.
The comments section of NOLA.com, usually where you will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy, provided the perfect response to this story, though, in the first comment posted: "I was hoping he would stay in Denver where he can do us less harm."
This is on the heels of last Friday, when RayRay was given an award. The award-givers were called "The Excellence in Recovery Host Committee," which no one had ever heard of and which turns out was packed with RayRay's cronies, donors and supporters, and the award he was given, which no one had ever heard of either, was called "Award of Distinction for Recovery, Courage and Leadership." Several of the community leaders who were named to the committee that very week, including the president of the City Council, said they had no idea Nagin was to be honored; Council president Jackie Clarkson said she thought flood survivors were to be honored. The event was organized by RayRay's personal photographer, who's also become a self-appointed mayoral assistant and media relations czar, who's only known by the name ... Bernardo.
The event, held at the Ritz-Carlton, was picketed by about 75 people out front, who carried signs saying, among other things, "NAGIN IS AN IDIOT."
I am not making this up.
[ Link to today's entries ]
Thursday, August 21, 2008 Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva 15 Year Old Rum. There's been a new trend the last several months where cocktail bloggers have been offered review samples of products. "Hey, free booze!" you might say. Not so fast. A lot of these, as the bloggers who were the recipients of these offers will confirm, were crap trendy products completely uninteresting to them. (Shocking pink, impossibly sweet liqueurs, and the like.)
A while back I started getting offered samples as well, and they were invariably vodka. I must confess to not having a lot of interest in vodka, preferring spirits that actually taste like something. Yes yes yes, I can get into lengthy argu-- er, discussions with vodka drinkers about the subtleties of flavor in a well-made vodka, and they're absolutely right. I just don't enjoy drinking plain vodka for the most part (unless it's Zubrówka), and it bores me. Not only that, I'm a believer in Audrey Saunders' adage that for the most part a vodka cocktail is a cocktail with a hole in it; any subtlety in a vodka's flavor pretty much disappears when it's mixed.
Imagine my delight, then, when I was offered a sample of something that not only interested me but excited me. Now that the disclosure is out of the way, let's talk about a rum I've been curious about for a while but until recently had never tried until I got a bottle in the mail -- Ron Matusalem.
Matusalem is a rum from the Dominican Republic, but they are quick to point out that they are a Cuban spirit. How does that work? In 1872 the Matusalem distillery was founded in Santiago de Cuba by two Spanish immigrants, Benjamin and Eduardo Camp, and their partner Evaristo Álvarez. They brought along the Solera system from Spain, used to make Spain's sherries and brandies, in which a series of barrels are used to age a wine or spirit. A portion from the last and oldest barrel is bottled, then that barrel is filled from the next-to-last barrel, etc. The aging process is reflected in the name they chose for their rum, which is Spanish for Methuselah, the old patriarch who according to biblical legend lived to an age of 969 (nine hundred four years of retirement -- golf, shuffleboard and getting in his wife's hair ... oy) and a nod to the old Spanish proverb, "Esto es màs viejo que Matusalem" -- "It's older than Methuselah."
The beautifully crafted rum took off, and by the mid-1950s Matusalem had half of the Cuban rum market. Then we all know what happened in Cuba four years later ...
The Álvarez family and their company were forced into exile, and the brand nose-dived. Fortunately, in the mid-1990s, Claudio Álvarez Salazar, great-grandson of Evaristo, won a court settlement granting the Matusalem brand back to him and his family. He took what was left of the company back to its roots, started making their rums the old way and ... voilà! Ron Matusalem was relaunched in 2002.
Here's the stuff they sent me a few weeks ago:
![]()
Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva, 15 years old. "The Cognac of Rums" was what it was called back in the day, according to the distiller. They describe it as a "super premium" rum but also call for its inclusion in cocktails. Well, let's give it a try, shall we?
This is the first time I've ever evaluated a spirit for a review, even just as semi-formal one, but I want to do it right. Fortunately a month ago Wesly and I took a course at Tales of the Cocktail with Paul Pacult called "How to Taste Like A Professional," which comes in handy for this sort of thing. Our palates aren't nearly as educated as his, but we can certainly continue to train them by taking his advice, which is basically to smell and taste the spirit, do it properly, and let the spirit sit in the glass for several minutes to see what else it releases as it aerates. Sounds like fun.
![]()
First off, it's pretty stuff; a beautiful amber/honey color in the glass. First sniff ... sugar cane. Then vanilla, and plenty of it. "Grandmother's attic," was one of Gregg's observations when he, Wes and I first tasted this a week or so ago, and he meant that in the best possible way. After a few minutes more vanilla, then a buttery aroma developed. Five to seven minutes in the glass, and I actually laughed in surprise -- I got the flavor of pecan pralines, right out of New Orleans. (Unsurprising, as the ingredients in pralines are sugar, butter, pecans and sometimes rum.) Really delightful.
Now, let's have a taste ... a bit of alcohol up front, although it's bottled at 40%. It's pleasantly hot, though; I get that not so much on the tongue but on my lips. Despite that bit of heat it's very smooth. We all found that 5 to 8 minutes in the glass eliminated the burn. It's delicate and refined but wouldn't be easy to overpower. Very complex, with plenty of vanilla, butter, toasted pecans, a touch of cinnamon. More aeration also brought out more oak wood as well. It had a nice finish too; I could still taste it almost 15 minutes later. Hoo-boy. We poured some more. This is really terrific stuff. Not too sweet, with more of a brown sugar flavor that strong molasses, crisp, woody, buttery caramel, yet still dry enough. The first time we tasted this we also tasted an actual Cuban rum, Havana Club Añejo (um ... we teleported to Canada to do that ... yeah, that's it), and I have to say that Fidel's boys got their butts kicked. Clearly Matusalem was the superior product.
Now, is this a rum I want to reserve for sipping only? I'm tempted, but I'm a believer in Gary Regan's adage of "Garbage In, Garbage Out" when it comes to cocktails, and I'm not shy about using the good stuff. I certainly will sip this on occasion, but what else shall we try? One of my favorite ways to evaluate a whiskey is to use it in an Old Fashioned, and I've been doing that with añejo tequila these days as well. So let's try one of those ... Wes did the honors.
![]()
Rum Old Fashioned
2-1/2 ounces Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva rum.
1 teaspoon simple syrup.
2 dashes Angostura Bitters.
1 lime wedge.
1 good-quality cocktail cherry.
Combine rum, syrup and bitters in a mixing glass and stir for 30 seconds. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over fresh ice. Garnish with the cherry and the lime wedge, but do not squeeze the lime; leave the option for the drinker.This made an absolutely gorgeous Old Fashioned. Wes went light on the syrup, as we didn't want to oversweeten. The lime makes a lovely garnish and would probably complement the flavor nicely, but we thought leaving the squeezing up to the individual would be a good idea if you're serving these.
Okay, what else shall we do? I thought of a Daiquiri, and that'd be a great way to drink this stuff too; keeping it simple with lime and sugar. I wanted to try and see how it'd blend with other ingredients, though, and while thinking of something Daiquiri-like the lightbulb went off over my head. I went to our cocktail bookshelf and dug out Jeff "Beachbum" Berry's most recent and stupendously wonderful book, Sippin' Safari and flipped around until I found the recipe I was thinking about.
This is a drink by the man who started the whole world of tiki cocktails and cuisine, a native of New Orleans named Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt, who later changed his name to Donn Beach, but was known the world 'round as Don the Beachcomber. Jeff says this drink "is a good example of how Donn had mastered the art of blending rums of different body, character and origin to create a flavor no one rum could approach on its own. Try this with 2 ounces of only one of the rums listed above, and you'll get a serviceable but utterly unexceptional Daiquiri."
Don's original recipe called for Golden Stag rum; Jeff suggests substituting Appleton Special Gold from Jamaica, but I decided to let the Cuban spirit by way of the Dominican Republic take the forefront. The other two rums called for are a half-ounce each of "aged dark Jamaican rum" -- Jeff recommends Appleton Estate Extra, which I absolutely love (talk about the Cognac of rums, yeesh!) -- and Louisiana rum, for which I used Old New Orleans Dark 3 Year Old rum.
Golden Stag
1 ounce Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva rum.
1/2 ounce Appleton Estate Extra rum.
1/2 ounce Old New Orleans Dark rum.
1/2 ounce fresh lime juice.
1/2 ounce simple syrup.
1 dash Angostura Bitters.
Lime wheel.
Shake with ice for at least 12 seconds, and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with the lime wheel.God ... what a gorgeous drink! This ain't no ordinary Daiquiri; blending those rums together creates a new and wonderful whole, and the Matusalem anchor works great. The dash of bitters helps to tie it all together, with the sweet and tart in balance.
I'd say go ahead and mix Matusalem Gran Reserva with just about anything you care to (although if you do a Cuba Libre I'd go easy on the cola). Definitely sip this when you're in the mood for a sippin' rum, though. And the clincher? The distillery describes this as a "super premium" rum, but Beverage Warehouse carries this for $29.95! That's hardly a premium price, and at that price you can afford to go through this without too much worry about your wallet.
And there you have it, my first review from an actual professional sample. That was fun! Let's do it again!
The Cocktail Spirit, with Robert Hess. New episode up, with Robert helping you out if you were wondering what the heck you can do with that bottle of Fee's peach bitters you ended up with, besides a few dashes on top of a Bellini.
As we all know, bitters are a crucial ingredient for many cocktails. A few old recipes referred to peach bitters, but no product survived to modern days. Fee Brothers then produced their version, and I took it on myself to see if I could come up with a few cocktails that might be able to make good use of it. The Renaissance is one of them that I came up with. I think that it is a delightfully approachable drink that is just slightly on the sweet side.
That looks like a lovely late summer drink. I think we might need one tonight.
Poor misunderstood vermouth. I'll admit. I'll come clean. I ... I ... My name is Chuck, and I used to hate vermouth. "Hi, Chuck!"
But as is the case with so many instances of hate, it really came down to fear. I was afraid of vermouth. I'm not sure why, but I think I have a good idea, and I think it's a similar story with a lot of people. I probably tasted some vermouth from my dad's bar way back when, and it was likely the same bottle of dry vermouth that had been in his bar since 1965.
Vermouth is wine. It goes bad. It's fortified, so it doesn't go bad quite as fast as regular wines, but it's got a limited shelf life, should be used as quickly as possible and kept in the fridge after opening. Use that wine preserving gas, too.
For those who still fear vermouth, I cannot encourage you enough to give it a go. After having my vermouth and Martini epiphany at the hands of Dale DeGroff ... well, use whatever clich´ you like -- the shackles fell from my wrists, the light shone down upon me on the road to Damascus, Cher slapped me in the face and yelled "Snap out of it!" A properly made "wet" Martini is a joy to behold, and don't even get me started on the joys of sweet vermouth, which is so good I'll drink it by itself. But don't just take my word for it, let's listen to a pro.
My friend Paul Clarke takes a look at poor, misunderstood vermouth in a new article in the San Francisco Chronicle, examining the wholly unwarranted fear and loathing. As Dave Wondrich said in the article, "Bartenders are taught to treat (vermouth) like toxic waste." (This must stop!) Learn some history, how to store it properly, and some yummy drinks you can make with vermouth.
Way cool! Scott Haefner flies kites. Not only that, he attaches his Canon digital camera to it, fitted with a fisheye lens, takes pictures, then converts them into really nifty Quicktime VR 360° panoramas. Check 'em out.
[ Link to today's entries ]
Tuesday, August 19, 2008 An Olympic cocktail. Eric Felten has a fascinating article in the Wall Street Journal about the history of drinking and cocktails in the Olympics (I love that Frank Sinatra wanted to start an Olympic Drinking Team). There's even a yummy-looking cocktail recipe, which I'll post here; read it soon, as the article will go away in a few days.
Appropriately enough, there is an Olympic Cocktail that managed to find its way into old cocktail books. Equal parts brandy, orange curaçao and orange juice, sadly, it is an over-sweet monotone.
But there are others, including the drink devised by Nino Mastalioni, a hotel barman in Rome, who in 1960 tried to reflect in a glass the international character of the games. He combined one part each American rye whiskey, German kirsch, Russian vodka, London dry gin, along with Campari (to represent his native Italia). Nino was happy to customize his concoction -- replacing the whiskey with tequila for his Mexican guests, or aquavit for the vodka if a Dane stepped up to the bar. But any way you try it, Mastalioni's Elixir of Olympus is fiercely alcoholic and only marginally potable.
Far better is the Mount Olympus cocktail created by Wembley bartender Jock Nelson for London's 1948 games. Equal parts Greek brandy, Lillet blanc and orange curaçao, Nelson bragged the drink was "guaranteed to give anyone enough zip to run a four-minute mile." The original cocktail is too sweet and viscous for my taste, but with a little adjustment it's possible to find a gymnast's balance for the Mount Olympus. I boosted the proportion of brandy, replaced the generic curaçao with Grand Marnier and added a bit of fresh lime juice to keep the sweetness in check.
Mount Olympus
1-1/2 ounces Metaxa.
1/2 ounce Grand Marnier.
1/2 ounce Lillet blanc.
1/4 ounce fresh lime juice.
Shake with ice and strain into a stemmed cocktail glass. Garnish with orange peel.We had one last night. Very lovely.
If any of y'all have an Olympic cocktail of your own, or are inspired to create one, please post it in the comments!
Whiskies (and a Cognac) You've Never Tasted. The seminars continue at Tales of the Cocktail ... after thoroughly enjoying our first seminar with the renowned Paul Pacult, we decided to try another, the one of the above title. Actually it was just called "Whiskies You've Never Tasted" in the course description, but if you read the fine print they slipped a Cognac in there too. "Tasting will cover the differences in top-end bourbon, Irish, single malt and blended Scotch as a way of describing top quality in various expressions. Attendees will be among a select few to taste the rare, unparalleled whiskey expressions" of the spirits offered. Um ... sign me up.
Wes and I managed to score front-row seats, and were greeted by a pretty sight:
![]()
Oh my. Let's go through what we tasted:
Martell Creation Grande Extra - A masterful blend of Cognacs 18 years or older. Gorgeous copper-mahogany color, with almonds, toasted nuts, butterscotch, vanilla and figs in the nose. On the palate, a glorious explosion of vanilla, with cinnamon and even that unburnt tobacco aroma I love so much (which turns to crap when it's set on fire). Aboslutely superb stuff, and at $300 per bottle I'm unlikely to be tasting such a thing anywhere else.
![]()
That's about 3/4 ounce of the Martell Creation which, at retail price, would run you about nine bucks. This seminar more than paid for itself, between Paul's observations and the value of the amazing spirits we tasted.
Chivas Regal 25 Year Blended Scotch Whisky - The closest I'd ever come to tasting this was when a very generous cow-orker supervising our team on a slow day bought us a bottle of Chivas Regal Royal Salute, their 21-year-old blend. We sat around on a dead day in the sound studio and passed it around, and it was mighty fine. This stuff was better. It's been brought back on the market to pay tribute to the first 1909 import of a 25-year Chivas, and I'd say it was probably worth the wait. More stunning color -- deep amber and wildflower honey. You could smell the toasted grain, plus a lovely floral bouquet of Scottish heather. The taste was very dry, with elements of wood and leather, a hint of apple and a light, fresh finish. This is another $300 bottle of whisky, and another one I'm not likely to have at home either.
Midleton Very Rare, 2007 Release - This is a blended Irish whiskey that we've had before; we picked up a bottle of the 2003 release on our last trip to Ireland (they're numbered, and we got bottle 56!). I adore this stuff, and if possible the '07 blend is even better than the '03. Apple, pear, dried fruit and a bit of toffee in the nose, and on the palate ... fruit!! Apples, pears, peaches, plus wood, more toffee, and sheer elegance. Paul summed up everyone's feelings on this whiskey thusly: "If I could afford it, I'd bathe in it." This, along with the 25-year Chivas above, should be waved in the face of any Scotch snobs who turn their noses up at blended whiskey while claming that only single malts are worth spending money for. Master blenders like Colin Scott at Chivas and Barry Crockett at Midleton are geniuses and artists. It's incredibly difficult to create blends like these. Midleton ia also more affordable than the two examples above, running about $120-130 per bottle.
Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve - Another Irish whiskey, from the house of John Jameson, formerly made in Dublin but now made at the Midleton distillery in Cork, as are most Irish whiskies these days. (There are only three working distilleries left in Ireland -- Midleton in Cork, Bushmills in Antrim and Cooley in Dundalk, Co. Louth. Cooley is the only independent, Irish-owned one too; Midleton is owned by Pernod Ricard, and Bushmills by Diageo.) I've been a fan of Jameson's standard release, but this one ... ooh. Rarest Vintage Reserve is a bland of the oldest and rarest of Jameson's stock, blended then re-aged in ruby port barrels. Beautiful legs in the glass, with Port, grapes, dried peach and jammy fruit in the nose. On the palate, dried fruit and fresh peaches, baking spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, and after sitting out for a bit, a little chocolate-covered toffee even! Alas, $250 a bottle, though.
Wild Turkey American Spirit - I'm a fan of regular Wild Turkey, both the Bourbon and the rye, so I was eager to try this stuff. It's a 15-year-old single barrel Bourbon, bottled at 100 proof. First whiff ... caramel! Not surprising, given the sweetness of Bourbon and the long aging, but this one is a caramel bomb in the best way. Also got whiffs of toast and wood as well. Very smooth on the palate despite the high alcohol content. Toffee and dark caramel. Pretty good, but for the same price I prefer the Black Maple Hill Bourbon.
Glenlivet Nàdurra - Finishing up our tasting with another Scotch, a non-chill filtered cask strength whisky (112 proof) that's been aged for 16 years in American Bourbon barrels and named with the Scots Gaelic word for "natural." It's a little harsh on the nose, given the high alcohol content, but it's recommended by the distiller to be had with water and not neat. A little bit of spring water later ... wow! An explosion of aroma -- fruit, flowers, spices, honey and oak. First taste ... the same, only more so, with a long, peppery, toasty, nutty finish. Nice nice! And at only about $65-70 a bottle, it won't put you in the poor house.
All that for a $40 seminar ticket. Not bad. And no, I didn't spit any of it out, but I prepared myself for this that day, and wasn't planning to have Jeff Berry and Wayne Curtis kill me with kindness and volumes of rum later in the evening either. I was just following the lead of our teacher, who said, "I ain't spittin' any of this stuff out today!"
![]()
![]()
Cocktail garnishes gone mad. I'm all for bringing up the cocktail experience to its best heights, primarily by having it taste wonderful and be served in an enjoyable setting. However, one bar in Sydney seems to have gone not so much over the top but off the edge of the flat Earth:
All I did, as usual, was order a drink. Which only partly explains why I found myself here, seated in a cordoned-off side room at Zeta, a plush, dusky, high-ceiling downtown night spot -- holding a booze-filled pineapple and wearing a blindfold along with headphones hooked to a specially programmed iPod.
All the while, someone was spraying my face with what smelled like Hawaiian Tropic suntan oil.
Ladies and gentlemen, meet the world's most elaborate cocktail garnish. The Tiki, the drink I ordered, is one of four sensory cocktails to make their debut this month at Zeta. They join au courant classics like a Ping Pong and Clover Club on the deliciously freewheeling cocktail menu, which also features a martini served on a bed of smoldering tea leaves and a bourbon-and-Coke "ice cream cone" forged in liquid nitrogen.
The sensory cocktails work like this: order the daiquiri, and you're tucked into a semiprivate spot where you sip your drink blindfolded while listening to 18 minutes of Cuban music on an iPod. All the while, a waitress spritzes you with a cigar mist made by simmering crumbled cigars in water and simple syrup.
The idea, said Grant Collins, Zeta's consulting mixologist, is "to heighten the link between the drink and the experience. Listening to the music makes your mind drift, and the blindfold heightens your sense of smell." And the smoky mist? It's a sensory trick to make you think you're in Havana. Blind and piercingly alone, but still, you know, in Havana.All right, I call bullshit on this. This consulting mixologist has apparently forgotten that drinking is supposed to be a social experience, not something to be done while blindfolded and wearing headphones. What this bar is doing is undoubtedly charging a premium price -- paying a waitress to stand there for 20 minutes spraying someone in the face with cigar-infused sugar syrup and suntan oil -- for what's essentially a dolled-up Piña Colada plus lots of wankery. Sheesh.
[ Link to today's entries ]
Monday, August 18, 2008 Ní bheidh a leithéid arís ann. Ronnie Drew, Irish folk singer with a voice like whiskey and razor blades, and founding member of The Dubliners, passed away on Saturday from complications of throat cancer, at the age of 73.
![]()
Ronnie was a tremendous figure in Irish music for nearly 50 years, and it's safe to say that Irish traditional and folk music as we know it today would be very different indeed, if it were around at all, without the influence of Ronnie, The Dubliners and the folk music resurgence they help launch in Dublin in the early 1960s. Although you may only be marginally familiar with him, or perhaps not at all, his passing is a huge loss for Ireland and Irish culture. From AJ O'Flaherty's blog in Ireland: "His loss is enormous. Thoughts and prayers go out to his family. It was like hearing a family member died. He epitomised wisdom, wit, joy for life, love and passion for music. The word legend is used a little loosely at times, but we truly have just lost a legend and he will be sorely missed." Here Joseph O'Connor remembers him in a lovely piece in the Irish Independent.
![]()
Shane Macgowan of The Pogues said, "Everything we have done, the Dubliners have either done it or they could do it better!" Bono of U2 said, "Music to inspire, to console... an optimism that was contagious... that's what U2 took from The Dubliners. Ronnie has left his earthly tour for one of the heavens -- they need him up there, it's a little too quiet and pious. God is lonely for a voice louder than His own."
I won't write a long history here; do some Googling on The Dubliners, and head over to iTunes or your local independent record store and buy a best-of compilation. Oh, and if you're already familiar with them, here are the lyrics of one of The Dubs' biggest hits, "Seven Drunken Nights", including the two final nights Ronnie was never allowed to sing on radio or TV. And it's a folk song, for feck's sake!
Here's a very early performance, pre-Dubliners, when they were still called "The Ronnie Drew Group," doing "McAlpine's Fusiliers":
Here's a later performance of "Finnegan's Wake":
Just listen to this fantastic version of "Easy and Slow":
And raise "The Parting Glass."
Here's to you, Ronnie Drew.
Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam.
When a bitter liqueur helps your palate mature ... That's amaro!
(Okay, that was bad. Sorry. Here's hoping I won't be assaulted by the ghost of Dean Martin.)
I'm usually not one to toot my own horn too much, but I think it's a credit to my stamina (and my liver) that my hangover on Friday morning, July 18, was not nearly as catastrophic as it could (or should) have been. Six Scotches, ten gins, four wee gin cocktails, nine brandies, three wee brandy cocktails, three wee cocktails, then five HUMU-HUMU-MONGOUS tropical cocktails at the Tiki dinner the night before; then as Wesly mentioned, after that I visited the Partida / Plymouth / St. Germain suite on the 9th floor, then my friend Eric Alperin of The Doheny handed me one more drink ... and that's when my brain shut down. The next day I marveled at Seamus' and Rick's excellent posts on the dinner, and especially wondered how Seamus was able to pull off such a great post right after the dinner. (I was more occupied with the daunting task of walking.)
So, to continue with the pokiest and longest-running Tales of the Cocktail recaps of any cocktail blogger out there ...
We slept through the media breakfast at Brennan's and managed to rouse our carcasses ("Quiet darling, your Auntie Mame is hung") to get to one of the most-anticipated seminars of my schedule: "Amore Amari: A Very Bitter History of Bitter Spirits in Apertif Service and Cocktails," presented by Averna, Campari and The Bitter Truth. Wesly and I have been mad for bitters for years, obsessively collecting as many varieties as we could (including our best score ever -- three pristine, full 18-ounce bottles of Abbott's Bitters), and over the past year or so have become amaro fanatics as well -- the bitterer the better.
![]()
Eric Seed of Haus Alpenz led the panel and began by talking about the history of bitters in cocktails, and how up until the beginning of the 19th century bitters were truly strictly medicinal, and medical miracles were attributed to their regular use. Our favorite of the historical ads that they showed were for Hostetter's Stomach Bitters, the makers of which exhorted you to "Renew Vigor and Make Life Worth Living!" Hostetter's also helped you "renew your life-giving blood currents" and took care of your dyspepsia, malaria, indigestion, fever and ague, nervousness, kidney, bladder and bowel disease, neuralgia, rheumatism, menstrual cramps and hysteria. While I can't vouch for most of those claims, bitters then and now are great for indigestion and overindulgence, and many of us have but a few teaspoons of Angostura in soda water to settle our tummies.
Eric also reviewed several of the primary styles and components of bitter liqueurs. Wormwood-based bitters, in addition to absinthe, include relatively mild examples such as vermouth, which comes from wermut, the German word for wormwood, plus some massively and wonderfully bitter concoctions such as Gorki List from Serbia. (My good friend Dule, from Belgrade who now lives in Zurich, loves the stuff and always keeps a bottle on hand "to test the mettle of my guests." You'll be able to test your own mettle soon; Eric plans to bring Gorki List to the States later this year.)
Gentian-based bitters, which have an almost horseradish-like bitterroot flavor without the burn, include Suze from France and Averna from Sicily, and gentian is also an ingredient in most aromatic cocktail bitters such as Angostura. Cinchona bark, from which we get quinine, is the bitter agent in tonic water as well as in quinquinas, aperitif wines like Lillet, Dubonnet and bitters such as Amer Picon. Citrus bitters are sought for their flavor, aroma and sweetness as well as the bitter components. They make very popular amari (Campari, to name the most popular, and it's "younger brother" Aperol), as well as beloved cocktail bitters such as the wealth of orange bitters we're able to enjoy now from Fee's, Regans', The Bitter Truth, Hermes and the wonderful new Angostura Orange Bitters.
LeNell Smothers also spoke about her massive collection of bitters at her shop in Brooklyn (and I'm preparing a frighteningly large order for her), and Stephan Berg of the wonderful new bittersmakers The Bitter Truth came from Germany to speak of his products and also regale us with some wonderful history of Angostura and Abbott's Bitters.
We also had three terrific cocktails:
Les Voûtes
1-1/2 ounces Rittenhouse Rye 100 proof
1/2 ounce Martini & Rossi Rosso Vermouth
1/2 ounce yellow Chartreuse
1 splash Clear Creek kirschwasser
2 dashes The Bitter Truth Orange BItters
Stir over ice many times over, strain into chilled cocktail glass.
This is a lovely Manhattan variation, and shows what can be achieved with just a small amount of an aromatic herbal liqueur, changing the character of the drink completely. Yellow Chartreuse plays with other ingredients a bit more readily than the green, which has such a unique and assertive flavor that it tends to dominate if not carefully balanced. The kirsch gives it a bit of cherry flavor while keeping it dry, and the orange bitters tie everything together beautifully.
Negroni Transalpina
2 ounces Martini & Rossi Rosso Vermouth
1 ounce Plymouth Gin
1 ounce Campari
2 dashes The Bitter Truth Orange BItters
1 teaspoon apricot eau de vie
Shake first four ingredients with ice, strain into a cocktail glass and float the eau de vie.
This Negroni variation is heavier on the vermouth (we like the variation called the Cinnabar Negroni, which doubles the Campari), and a bit of dry apricot brandy (the lovely Marillien that Eric's Haus Alpenz imports) also adding fruit flavor without the potential of overly cloying sweetness from too much liqueur. This reminds me of a drier, more bitter Martinez.
La Cola Nostra
1-1/2 ounces Pampero Anniversario Rum
1 ounce Averna
1/4 ounce St. Elizabeth's Allspice Dram
1 ounce Bubbly Brut Cuvée
3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
1/2 ounce Fee Brothers Rock Candy Syrup
Shake and strain.
A Daiquiri variation, again demonstrating that a little liqueur can go a long way flavorwise. Here we have only 1/4 ounce of Eric's new product, St. Elizabeth's Allspice Dram, and it lends great character and spice to the drink. The Averna gives it a lovely bitter component, with the sparkling wine lightening it all up. Funny name too, but you do get a sense of kola nut flavor (itself a very bitter ingredient, if you've ever tasted one on its own) in this mixture of flavors with the most well-known Sicilian amaro.
As great as this all was, perhaps the best part was at the very end, when we were invited to come up if we were interested in tasting some of the myriad stash of bitters they'd brought, including ... vintage 19th century Boker's Bitters, the bitters used to make the first Manhattan cocktail. (If we're interested? Ya think?) Stephan placed one precious drop on my hand and I tasted ... and wow. Wow wow wow. Amazing body and spice and depth of flavor, baking spices like cinnamon and clove and ginger and all kinds of strange and wonderful things and YUM. It reminded me of Abbott's, but without the elements you get from the barrel aging in the latter. It still tasted terrific, and I wish Stephan had had enough to make us all Rittenhouse Manhattans with it. We got more tastes from LeNell and Eric, and as Jay Hepburn put it, "I have the wonderful aroma of 10