I was served the original version of this dish as part of a seven-course degustation
meal at Emeril's Restaurant in New Orleans on November 20, 1995 (here is
that night's entire degustation).
It was stunning.
I recreated my version of this dish as part of my practical final exam
for an advanced cooking class in the Culinary Arts Program at UCLA
Extension. It's different from Chef Emeril's version, obviously -- he's him and I'm only me. :^)
In his dish the asparagus was puréed for a creamier, smoother,
more elegant texture -- mine was diced, and a little more rustic. Try it
either way (this way it's a little bit of both).
For the Broth:
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup sliced onions
- 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
- 2 large cloves garlic, chopped
- 3/4 cup chopped fresh tomatoes, cored and seeded but not peeled
- 1/2 cup canned Italian plum tomatoes
- 2-1/2 cups fish stock or chicken stock
- 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
- 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
- A 3" by 1" piece of dried orange peel
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan. Add the onions and saffron, and
sauté, stirring frequently, until the onions are tender, but not
browned. Add the garlic, tomatoes and seasonings. Simmer 3-4 minutes,
then add the stock. Adjust salt to taste, bring to a boil, then simmer
loosely covered for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine strainer, and be
sure to press all the solids to squeeze out all the juices. Return the
broth to the pan, and adjust seasoning as necessary. Makes about 2
cups.
For the Risotto:
- 3 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons walnut, hazelnut or olive oil
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 2 cups Arborio rice, imported from Italy
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1-1/2 pounds fresh asparagus
- 4 cups chicken stock, hot
- 2 cups cooking liquid from asparagus
- Salt to taste
- 2/3 cup freshly grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese
Trim off the bottoms of the asparagus spears and peel the lower portion
of the stems. Simmer in water until crisp-tender. Cut off the tips, then
return the stems to the water and continue to simmer until tender.
Cut the stems into 1/2" pieces and purée, then force the
purée through a fine sieve to remove any strings. Reserve 2 cups
of the cooking liquid.
Heat the stock and asparagus liquid in a saucepan and keep it warm over
low heat. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium
heat, and then add the olive oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring
frequently, for 4 minutes, until the onion is translucent and tender.
Add the rice and sauté until thoroughly coated with the butter and
oil, stirring so that the onion is mixed in as well. Add the wine and
cook, stirring constantly, until the wine is absorbed. Add a little
stock, stirring constantly, until it has been absorbed almost
completely. Continue adding the stock a bit at a time, stirring until
absorbed and adding more, for about 12 minutes. Fold in the asparagus
purée, and continue adding stock until the rice is al dente, 16-20
minutes total cooking time. Add salt to taste. Fold in the
asparagus tips.
Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and 1/3 cup of the
Parmagiano. The risotto should be very moist and creamy. Makes 4
generous servings.
For the Spinach:
Take 1 cup stemmed, washed and thoroughly dried spinach leaves, and drop
them in a deep-fryer for 30 seconds until the leaves are crisp.
Alternately, deep-fry them in a skillet with 1/2" of oil heated to 350°F.
Drain thoroughly, and crumble slightly.
For the Scallops:
Season the scallops on both sides with salt and Creole seasoning.
As soon as the risotto is finished, heat a large sauté pan over
medium-high heat until hot, about 1 minute. Add the butter and shake the
pan to coat it entirely. Heat the butter until it is slightly browned.
Add the scallops, one at a time. Lower the heat to prevent the butter
from burning, and cook the scallops for 90 seconds to 2 minutes. Turn
the scallops and cook until medium-rare, another 30 - 90 seconds.
Assembly of the Dish
Spoon a small portion, about 1/2 cup, of risotto into the center of a
large, shallow bowl (like a pasta bowl); serve more if it's a main course.
Add about 1/2 cup of broth around the risotto. Sprinkle about 1/4 cup of crumbled fried spinach
around the broth. Top the risotto with 2 scallops for a first course
serving, 4-6 for a main. Sprinkle about a tablespoon Parmagiano around the risotto.
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Chuck Taggart
(e-mail chuck)