PICON PUNCH

 
It's the most popular cocktail in Bakersfield, California. Why, you may ask? I did, and looked it up -- it 's the "national drink" of the Basque people, and there are lots of Euskadi folk and Basque restaurants in B'field (known otherwise only for Buck Owens' place and for being the hometown of a lot of people I know who couldn't wait to move to L.A.)

What is it? It's the Picon Punch, and it seems that Bakersfield is the place to go to get 'em 'round these parts. It's based on a bitter orange spirit called Amer Picon, which itself is based on bitter oranges, gentian and cinchona. It was invented by a Frenchman named Gaëtan Picon in 1837, and the drink evolved from a French aperitif and stomachic on its own through the hands of the Italians and apparently into the hands of the Euskadi, who revere it.

The thing about Amer Picon is that it's almost impossible to get in the States these days, unfortunately. Even worse, about 20 years ago the manufacturers of Picon lowered the proof almost by half! It went from 78 proof to 39; one can imagine how that probably affected the flavor.

Fortunately, since the late 1940s the Torani syrup company has come to the rescue. They're the same folks that make all those Italian syrups in myriad flavors for sodas, coffee, cocktails, etc. Oddly enough, they don't seem to publicize this stuff, nor sell it or even refer to it on their website. Fortunately, an online spirits house called Beverages and More sells it via their site for $12.99 a bottle, with great service and fast shipping (mine got to me in about three days).

Ths version of Amer Picon, called Torani Amer in its new incarnation, has a similar flavor as the original spirit (although DrinkBoy thinks its sufficiently different as to not be an acceptable substitute; I find the flavors to be related, and in fact think that Torani Amer is superior to the current Amer Picon) and, most importantly, the same proof as the original Picon. It's delightfully bitter and bracing; if you like Campari you'll probably like this too. Sweetened in the punch and lightened by the soda, it's an absolutely yummy concoction that'll stimulate your appetite, settle your stomach afterward, and will be an enjoyable and relatively unusual addition to your pantheon of cocktails.

Picon Punch
The National Drink of the Basques

2 ounces Amer Picon (Torani Amer)
Few dashes of grenadine
Soda water
Lemon peel
1/2 ounce brandy (optional)

To do it Italian-style, coat the inside of a tumbler with grenadine. Add the Amer and ice, top with about 4 ounces soda and stir. Twist the lemon peel over the drink and garnish. If you feel the cockles of your heart need further warming, float a tablespoon or so of brandy on top.

Toast to your and your friends' health, and learn to say something in Euskara, the language of the Basques. Start with "Topa!", which is "Cheers!", or "Kaixo!" (kai-SHO), which is a greeting.

 

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Chuck Taggart   email chef (at) gumbopages (dot) com